A step by step guide to installing a front sway bar on a Subaru BRZ, Scion FR-S or Toyota GT86
This install guide will work for any sway bar on this platform including Whiteline’s 22MM Front Sway Bar, part number BSF45XZ and the 20MM Front Sway Bar, part number BSF45Z.
How long will it take to replace the front sway bar
The front sway bar is a little more difficult than the rear sway bar install. But it isn’t very hard at all. The only reason it takes longer is because you have to remove a couple of trays, so it still won’t be a problem. If you are performing this upgrade yourself and you have the proper tools then this job shouldn’t take more than 1-1/2 hours.
Tools required for the job
To install the sway bar on your BRZ/FR-S/GT86, you’ll need these tools:
- Jack Stands
- Car Jack
- Lug wrench
- Socket Wrench
- 12mm wrench
- Screw Driver
- 6mm allen wrench
- 10mm socket
- 12mm socket
- 14mm socket
- 17mm socket
- 19mm socket
Step by Step
Step One
Once your BRZ/FR-S/G86 is on jack-stands, remove the tires.
Step Two
Loosen the back bolts of the bumper splash guard until it drops down. Then remove the rear under tray (11 bolts to remove using a 10mm socket). Once the rear tray is off, remove the front under tray. There are 8 bolts to remove using a 12mm socket, and 7 plastic fasteners that can be popped off with a screwdriver (be careful not to break the fasteners).
Step Three
Loosen the lower portion of the endlink (leave the top portion connected to the shock) with a 17mm socket. Once loose, disconnect the endlink from the sway bar.
Step Four
Use a 14mm socket wrench to loosen the subframe braces (4 on each side). Hold the middle of the sway bar with one hand while you loosen, so it doesn’t smack you in the face.
Step Five
Take the sway bar off. It will still be connected to the subframe braces.
Step Six
Take the sway bar mounts off. A 12mm wrench and a 14mm socket will be required. There is a space on the underside of the brace to fit a socket wrench if you have any trouble. There are two bolts on each of the mounts, these can be a little tough. Make sure you keep the original mounts, you’ll need them!
Step Seven
Using the supplied lubricant, grease the new sway bar bushings. Put the sway bar bushings on the new sway bar with the slit facing front (the same way the OE bushings are facing).
Step Eight
Using the original mounts, attach the sway bar to the subframe braces. Put weight on the mounts to get started. The slots for the bolts are small so be careful not to cross thread. Tighten the bolts until they are very snug.
Step Nine
Take the stock endlinks completely off using a 17mm socket. Note: If the car has a high number of miles, there is a worst case scenario where the endlink will spin and not screw off. If this happens to you, use a 6mm allen wrench on the opposite side to get it off.
Step Ten
Put the new endlinks on, matching the length of the stock endlinks. Use the supplied washers on the outer side of the new endlink. A 19mm socket wrench will be required. Position the lower end at an angle to help install the sway bar.
Step Eleven
Install the sway bar. Hold the middle of the bar with one hand to avoid it smacking you in the face. Tighten the subframe braces back to the subframe using a 14mm socket wrench.
Step Twelve
Place the supplied lateral locks about an 1/8 of an inch on the inside of the sway bar mounts. Tighten them using the included allen wrench.
Step Thirteen
Attach the bottom of the endlinks to the desired tuning slot of the sway bar and tighten with a 19mm socket wrench. (The inner slot is the soft setting and the outer slot is the hard setting.) These are a little tricky, you might have to wiggle them in. Note: If the vehicle is at stock height the endlinks should go in fine. If your vehicle is lowered it will be a tighter fit and you may need shorter endlinks.
Step Fourteen
Attach the trays and splash guard back. First the front under tray, then the rear under tray, and finally attach the splash guard.
Step Fifteen
IMPORTANT: Adjust the endlinks to avoid preload. Make sure the middle is loose with NO tension. You should be able to finger turn it with very little effort. If you begin to feel tension, go back the other way.
Step Sixteen
Put the tires back on, and you’re ready to go.
Adjust the softness of the bar
To switch settings, just remove the bottom attachment on the endlink and switch to the desired setting.
Brit
August 21, 2015 at 3:32 pmDo you have the torque specs for how tight the nuts should be on the endlinks and the bolts for the swaybar bracket?
Drew Taylor
August 24, 2015 at 7:33 amThe master mechanic performing the install with me said that your just need to torque them to “German torque specs”: Good-an-tight. If you prefer the actual torque specs you can consult your owners manual. It was a pretty straight forward install though, just hand tightening them has worked fine. The car was immediately put on the track and has run several test sessions since with no issues.
Anon
August 11, 2019 at 1:49 pmOn page 3469/5107 the factory shop manual:
Front Stabilizer Link Assembly (end link) to Strut: 46NM, 34 Ft.Lb
Front Stabilizer Link Assembly (end link) to Front Stabilizer Bar (sway bar): 46NM, 34 Ft.Lb
Front Stabilizer Bar (sway bar) Bracket to Rear Body Mounting Cushion Sub-Assembly (subframe):
Nut: 25NM, 18 Ft.Lb
Bolt: 75NM, 55 Ft.Lb
Rear Body Mounting Cushion Sub-Assembly (subframe) to Chassis: 60NM, 44 Ft.Lb (for all)