Front End Steering Rebuild Kits
Package kits bundle the wearing front end parts in one order, usually for less than buying them one by one.
This interactive diagram shows the front suspension, steering and rear suspension of the 2017 Ford Escape. Hover over or tap any part to see what it does, the signs that it is worn, and the replacement parts we carry that fit your Escape, down to the side and position. The rear brakes shown are the 2017 to 2019 set, with the larger rear rotor and the electric parking brake.
We carry parts for it Not stocked yet Hover or tap any part.
The 2013 to 2019 Escape uses MacPherson struts at the front, with the coil spring on the strut and an L shaped lower control arm under each corner. The steering rack sits behind the front axle and the front sway bar runs across the rear of the front cradle with long links up to the struts. The rear is a multi-link design on its own subframe: a wide lower arm behind the axle carries the coil spring, a short dog bone link sits ahead of the axle, an arched upper arm sits on top, and a flat trailing arm runs forward to the body. The rear shocks are separate from the springs. All wheel drive models add a rear drive unit and two rear halfshafts, marked on the rear view.
We carry replacement parts for 28 of the 37 components on this diagram, 82 parts in all. See every part for the 2017 Ford Escape.
Package kits bundle the wearing front end parts in one order, usually for less than buying them one by one.
Front struts and rear shocks for the whole vehicle in one order.
A strut with its spring, mount and boot already assembled, so no spring compressor is needed.
The strut is the shock absorber and the upper locating part of the front corner in one. Its tube sits in a split collar at the top of the knuckle, clamped by one pinch bolt, the coil spring sits on it, and its top bolts into the strut tower.
Signs of wear: Bouncing after bumps, nose dive under braking, fluid on the tube, or a knock from the top of the strut over rough roads.
Tip: Struts are sold bare or as a complete assembly with the spring and mount already fitted. The complete assembly needs no spring compressor.
The front coil spring sits on a seat on the strut tube and pushes up against the top mount. It carries the weight of the front of the vehicle.
Signs of wear: A front corner sitting lower than the other, a broken coil end, or a clunk when turning the wheel at a stop.
Tip: Replace springs in pairs so both sides sit at the same height.
The strut mount is the rubber and bearing block at the top of the strut. Three bolts hold it to the strut tower, and its bearing lets the strut turn with the steering.
Signs of wear: Clunks or creaks from the top of the strut when steering at low speed, or a steering wheel that does not return to center.
Tip: The mount is often replaced along with the strut, since the strut has to come out either way.
A rubber bellows covers the strut rod to keep grit off its seal, and the bump stop inside it cushions the strut at full compression. The spring hides it in the assembled view; the exploded view shows it.
Signs of wear: A torn or missing boot, a rusty or scored strut rod, or a hard bang over big bumps.
Tip: Fit a new boot and bump stop whenever the strut is replaced.
See all Front Shock Bellows Boot Kit parts for the 2017 Ford Escape
An L shaped stamped steel arm. The ball joint at its outer end carries the knuckle, a short front leg pivots on a bushing at the front of the cradle, and a long rear leg ends in a large bushing held in a housing that bolts up under the cradle.
Signs of wear: Clunks over bumps, steering that wanders under braking, cracked or torn bushings, or play in the ball joint.
Tip: Left and right arms are different parts. Most replacement arms come with the ball joint and bushings already fitted.
Each lower arm has two bushings: a small one in the front leg, on a bolt that runs front to back, and a large one at the end of the rear leg, inside its housing.
Signs of wear: Clunks when braking or pulling away, a vague steering feel, or rubber that is cracked or pushed out of its housing.
Tip: Front and rear bushings are different parts. Some rear bushings come with a new housing.
See all Front Control Arm Bushings parts for the 2017 Ford Escape
The lower ball joint bolts to the outer end of the lower arm with three bolts. Its stud points up into the bottom of the knuckle, where a pinch bolt clamps it.
Signs of wear: Clunks over bumps, a loose feel in the front end, or play when the wheel is rocked top to bottom.
Tip: Left and right joints are listed separately. The joint can be bolted in on its own, or bought already fitted in a new arm.
See all Front Lower Ball Joint parts for the 2017 Ford Escape
The knuckle carries the hub bearing and the brake caliper. The strut clamps into its top, the ball joint sits in its bottom, and its rear arm takes the outer tie rod end.
Signs of wear: Knuckles rarely wear out. A bent knuckle after a curb strike shows as a pull or a crooked steering wheel that an alignment will not fix.
Tip: Complete knuckle assemblies come with the bearing and hub already pressed in.
See all Front Lowering Spindles parts for the 2017 Ford Escape
The front sway bar runs across the rear of the front cradle. Long links join its ends to the struts, so it twists when one side moves more than the other and keeps the vehicle flatter in turns.
Signs of wear: Body roll in turns that feels worse than it used to, usually from worn links or bushings rather than the bar.
Tip: Check the bar diameter before ordering bushings. The stock front bar is 23 mm.
Two rubber bushings in steel clamps hold the front bar to the cradle.
Signs of wear: Squeaks or knocks from the front over speed bumps, or a bar that moves in its clamps.
Tip: Bushings fit one bar diameter only.
See all Front Sway Bar Bushings parts for the 2017 Ford Escape
A long link with a ball stud at each end. The top bolts to a tab on the strut tube and the bottom to the end of the sway bar.
Signs of wear: A rattle or knock from the front over small bumps, or a link that moves by hand.
Tip: The same link fits both sides. Replace them in pairs.
See all Front Sway Bar Endlinks parts for the 2017 Ford Escape
The electric power steering rack sits behind the front axle on the rear of the cradle. Rubber boots at each end keep dirt off the inner tie rod joints.
Signs of wear: A torn boot, a clunk felt in the steering wheel, or a knock over bumps from the rack mounts.
Tip: Replace a torn boot quickly, before grit reaches the inner tie rod.
The inner tie rod screws onto the end of the rack inside the boot. Its ball joint lets the rod swing as the suspension moves.
Signs of wear: Play in the steering, a clunk when turning, or uneven tire wear.
Tip: The same inner rod fits both sides. An alignment is needed after replacing a tie rod.
See all Front Inner Tie Rod End parts for the 2017 Ford Escape
The outer tie rod end threads onto the inner rod. Its stud goes into the steering arm at the rear of the knuckle.
Signs of wear: Loose steering, a knock over bumps, a torn boot, or tires wearing on the edges.
Tip: Left and right ends are different parts. Count the turns when unscrewing the old one to keep the toe close until the alignment.
See all Front Outer Tie Rod End parts for the 2017 Ford Escape
Each front wheel is driven by a CV axle from the transaxle, with a plunging joint at the inner end, a fixed joint at the hub, and a rubber boot over each joint.
Signs of wear: Clicking while turning, a vibration under power, or grease thrown around the inside of the wheel from a split boot.
Tip: The passenger side axle differs between front wheel drive and all wheel drive models, so check the drive type.
See all CV Joint Parts - Front parts for the 2017 Ford Escape
On all wheel drive models a driveshaft from the front carries power back to a rear drive unit on the rear subframe, which drives the rear halfshafts.
Not on every vehicle: Fitted only to all wheel drive Escapes. Front wheel drive cars have no rear drive unit or rear halfshafts.
Signs of wear: A whine, shudder or clunk from the rear on all wheel drive models.
On all wheel drive models a short halfshaft runs from the rear drive unit to each rear hub, between the front and rear lower arms.
Not on every vehicle: Fitted only to all wheel drive Escapes. Front wheel drive cars have no rear drive unit or rear halfshafts.
Signs of wear: Clicking or a vibration from the rear under power, or grease from a split boot.
The rear knuckle carries the hub. The lower arms, the upper arm, the trailing arm and the shock all attach to it.
Signs of wear: Knuckles rarely wear out, but the bushings in the arms that hold them do.
The wide lower arm behind the axle. Its inner end bolts to the rear of the subframe, the coil spring sits in a pocket in it, and its outer end bolts to the knuckle through a bushing.
Signs of wear: A clunk from the rear over bumps, rust around the spring pocket, or a torn outer bushing.
Tip: The spring has to be held with a jack or compressor before the arm is unbolted.
The rear coil spring stands in the pocket of the spring arm and pushes up against the body. The shock is separate.
Signs of wear: A rear corner sitting low, or a broken coil end.
Tip: Replace springs in pairs.
A short straight link ahead of the axle, from a bushing at the subframe's front cross member to a bushing at the knuckle. Ford calls it the rear suspension front lower arm, or dog bone.
Signs of wear: Rear tires wearing on the edges, or a knock from the rear on rough roads. Ford notes that the original bushings can delaminate and offers an updated arm with solid bushings.
An eccentric cam bolt with two cam washers. Turning it moves one of the rear lower arms in or out to set the rear toe.
Signs of wear: A cam bolt seized by rust, so the rear toe cannot be set.
Tip: Seized cam bolts often have to be cut out, so a new bolt kit is worth having on hand.
See all Rear End Alignment Kit parts for the 2017 Ford Escape
An arched arm above the halfshaft line, from the subframe to the top of the knuckle. It sets the rear camber.
Signs of wear: A clunk from the rear, or rear tires wearing on the inner edge.
Tip: Adjustable arms are sold for lowered vehicles or to correct camber.
A long flat steel blade. Its rear end bolts flat to the front of the knuckle and its front end carries a bushing bolted into a bracket on the body. It holds the wheel against braking and acceleration.
Signs of wear: A clunk when braking or pulling away, or a torn front bushing.
Tip: Left and right blades are different parts.
The bushing in the front end of the trailing blade. A two hole plate runs through it and bolts up into the body bracket.
Signs of wear: A clunk on braking or a vehicle that steps sideways over bumps.
See all Trailing Arm Bushings parts for the 2017 Ford Escape
The rear shock is separate from the spring and stands nearly upright just behind the hub. Its lower eye bolts to the knuckle and its stem goes up into a rubber mount held to the body by two bolts.
Signs of wear: Bouncing or floating over bumps, fluid on the body, or a rattle from the rear. Ford notes a rattle from some 2015 to 2017 rear shocks.
Tip: Replace shocks in pairs, and fit a new upper mount kit at the same time.
The rear sway bar runs across the subframe's front cross member. Its ends bend back to short links on the spring arms.
Signs of wear: More body roll than usual, normally from worn links or bushings.
Two rubber bushings in clamps hold the rear bar to the subframe.
Signs of wear: Squeaks or knocks from the rear over bumps.
Tip: The stock rear bar is 16 mm.
See all Rear Sway Bar Bushings parts for the 2017 Ford Escape
A short link from the end of the rear bar down to a bracket on the spring arm.
Signs of wear: A rattle from the rear over small bumps.
See all Rear Sway Bar Endlinks parts for the 2017 Ford Escape
The front bearing is pressed into the knuckle and the hub is pressed into the bearing. The CV axle splines into the hub and is held by the axle nut.
Signs of wear: A hum or growl that changes with speed or when turning, or play when the wheel is rocked.
Tip: Replacing the bearing needs a press, so many buyers fit a complete knuckle assembly instead.
A vented 320 mm rotor clamped between the hub and the wheel.
Signs of wear: A pulsing brake pedal, grooves you can feel, or a lip at the outer edge.
A single piston floating caliper on a bracket bolted to the knuckle.
Signs of wear: A pull to one side under braking, a dragging brake, or a fluid leak.
Tip: Front wheel drive and all wheel drive models use different calipers, so check the drive type.
The pads ride in the caliper on each side of the rotor.
Signs of wear: Squealing, grinding, a longer pedal, or pads worn near the backing plate.
Tip: Front wheel drive and all wheel drive models use different pads, so check the drive type.
The rear hub bearing bolts to the rear knuckle. On all wheel drive models its center is splined for the halfshaft.
Signs of wear: A hum from the rear that rises with speed, or play when the wheel is rocked.
Tip: Front wheel drive and all wheel drive models use different rear hubs, and some front wheel drive hubs depend on park assist.
See all Rear Wheel Bearing and Hub Assembly parts for the 2017 Ford Escape
A solid 316 mm rear rotor clamped between the hub and the wheel. 2017 to 2019 models use this larger rotor; 2013 to 2016 models use a 280 mm rotor.
Signs of wear: A pulsing pedal when stopping gently, or deep grooves.
Tip: Rotors for 2013 to 2016 models are smaller and do not fit.
A single piston rear caliper with the electric parking brake motor bolted to its back. The motor clamps the pads when the parking brake switch is pulled.
Signs of wear: A dragging rear brake, a parking brake warning light, a parking brake that will not apply or release, or a fluid leak.
Tip: Replacement calipers come without the motor; the original motor moves to the new caliper. Put the parking brake in service mode first.
The rear pads ride in the caliper on each side of the rotor.
Signs of wear: Squealing or grinding from the rear; these pads carry a wear indicator that squeals when they are low.
Tip: Pads for 2013 to 2016 models are a different shape and do not fit.
Front lower control arms and their bushings, front and rear sway bar links, and the rear dog bone link are the parts most often replaced, followed by tie rod ends and rear upper arms. Ford has noted that the original dog bone bushings can delaminate and offers an updated arm with solid bushings.
No. The front uses struts, so the strut itself locates the top of the knuckle. There is one lower control arm and one lower ball joint per side. The rear does have an upper arm on each side.
The arms, links and struts are shared. All wheel drive models add a driveshaft, a rear drive unit and rear halfshafts, and use a different passenger side front axle, different rear hubs and different front brake calipers and pads. Check the drive type on each part before ordering.
No. The 2017 refresh kept the same suspension arms, links and struts, but the rear brakes changed. 2017 to 2019 models use a larger 316 mm (12.4 inch) rear rotor, rear calipers made for the electric parking brake motor, and different rear pads. The 2013 to 2016 rotor is 280 mm and its calipers work a cable parking brake, so rear rotors, calipers and pads are not interchangeable.
Yes, after replacing tie rods, struts, control arms or rear links. Front toe is set at the tie rods and rear toe at the rear toe adjuster cam bolt. Adjustable rear upper arms are sold to correct rear camber. On 2017 to 2019 models the electric parking brake has to be put in service mode before the rear pads or calipers are replaced.
Numbered diagrams to print or save for the shop. The numbers match the numbered parts on the interactive diagram.