Front End Steering Rebuild Kits
Package kits bundle the wearing front end parts in one order, usually for less than buying them one by one.
This interactive diagram shows the front suspension, steering and rear suspension of the 2014 Ford Focus. Hover over or tap any part to see what it does, the signs that it is worn, and the replacement parts we carry that fit your Focus, down to the side and position.
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The 2012 to 2018 Focus uses MacPherson struts at the front, with the coil spring on the strut and an L shaped lower control arm under each corner. Most models have a cast aluminium lower arm with the ball joint pressed in; the S and ST use a steel arm with a bolt-on ball joint. The steering rack sits behind the front axle, and the front sway bar runs across the rear of the front subframe with long links up to the struts. The rear is a multi-link design on its own subframe: a wide lower arm behind the axle carries the coil spring, a short straight link sits ahead of the axle, an arched upper arm sits on top, and a flat trailing arm runs forward to the body. The rear shocks are separate from the springs.
We carry replacement parts for 30 of the 36 components on this diagram, 114 parts in all. See every part for the 2014 Ford Focus.
Package kits bundle the wearing front end parts in one order, usually for less than buying them one by one.
Front struts and rear shocks for the whole vehicle in one order.
A strut with its spring, mount and boot already assembled, so no spring compressor is needed.
The strut is the shock absorber and the upper locating part of the front corner in one. Its tube sits in a split collar at the top of the knuckle, clamped by one pinch bolt, the coil spring sits on it, and its top bolts into the strut tower.
Signs of wear: Bouncing after bumps, nose dive under braking, fluid on the tube, or a knock from the top of the strut over rough roads.
Tip: Struts are sold bare or as a complete assembly with the spring and mount already fitted. The complete assembly needs no spring compressor.
The front coil spring sits on a seat on the strut tube and pushes up against the top mount. It carries the weight of the front of the vehicle.
Signs of wear: A front corner sitting lower than the other, a broken coil end, or a clunk when turning the wheel at a stop.
Tip: Replace springs in pairs so both sides sit at the same height.
The strut mount is the rubber and bearing block at the top of the strut. Three bolts hold it to the strut tower, and its bearing lets the strut turn with the steering.
Signs of wear: Clunks or creaks from the top of the strut when steering at low speed, or a steering wheel that does not return to center.
Tip: The mount is often replaced along with the strut, since the strut has to come out either way.
A rubber bellows covers the strut rod to keep grit off its seal, and the bump stop inside it cushions the strut at full compression. The spring hides it in the assembled view; the exploded view shows it.
Signs of wear: A torn or missing boot, a rusty or scored strut rod, or a hard bang over big bumps.
Tip: Fit a new boot and bump stop whenever the strut is replaced.
See all Front Shock Bellows Boot Kit parts for the 2014 Ford Focus
An L shaped lower arm: cast aluminium on SE, SEL, Titanium and Electric models, stamped steel on S and ST models. The ball joint at its outer end carries the knuckle, a short front leg pivots on a bushing at the front of the cradle, and a long rear leg ends in a large bushing held in a housing that bolts up under the cradle.
Signs of wear: Clunks over bumps, steering that wanders under braking, cracked or torn bushings, or play in the ball joint.
Tip: Left and right arms are different parts, and the aluminium and steel arms are not interchangeable, so check the trim. Replacement arms come with the ball joint and bushings fitted.
Each lower arm has two bushings: a small one in the front leg, on a bolt that runs front to back, and a large one at the end of the rear leg, inside its housing.
Signs of wear: Clunks when braking or pulling away, a vague steering feel, or rubber that is cracked or pushed out of its housing.
Tip: Front and rear bushings are different parts. Some rear bushings come with a new housing.
See all Front Control Arm Bushings parts for the 2014 Ford Focus
The lower ball joint sits in the outer end of the lower arm: pressed into the aluminium arm, or bolted to the steel arm with three bolts. Its stud points up into the bottom of the knuckle, where a pinch bolt clamps it.
Signs of wear: Clunks over bumps, a loose feel in the front end, or play when the wheel is rocked top to bottom.
Tip: The separate bolt-on joints fit the steel arm of S and ST models. On the aluminium arm the joint comes with a new arm.
See all Front Lower Ball Joint parts for the 2014 Ford Focus
The knuckle carries the hub bearing and the brake caliper. The strut clamps into its top, the ball joint sits in its bottom, and its rear arm takes the outer tie rod end.
Signs of wear: Knuckles rarely wear out. A bent knuckle after a curb strike shows as a pull or a crooked steering wheel that an alignment will not fix.
The front sway bar runs across the rear of the front cradle. Long links join its ends to the struts, so it twists when one side moves more than the other and keeps the vehicle flatter in turns.
Signs of wear: Body roll in turns that feels worse than it used to, usually from worn links or bushings rather than the bar.
Tip: Check the bar diameter before ordering bushings. The stock front bar is 23 mm.
Two rubber bushings in steel clamps hold the front bar to the cradle.
Signs of wear: Squeaks or knocks from the front over speed bumps, or a bar that moves in its clamps.
Tip: Bushings fit one bar diameter only.
See all Front Sway Bar Bushings parts for the 2014 Ford Focus
A long link with a ball stud at each end. The top bolts to a tab on the strut tube and the bottom to the end of the sway bar.
Signs of wear: A rattle or knock from the front over small bumps, or a link that moves by hand.
Tip: The same link fits both sides. Replace them in pairs.
See all Front Sway Bar Endlinks parts for the 2014 Ford Focus
The electric power steering rack sits behind the front axle on the rear of the cradle. Rubber boots at each end keep dirt off the inner tie rod joints.
Signs of wear: A torn boot, a clunk felt in the steering wheel, or a knock over bumps from the rack mounts.
Tip: Replace a torn boot quickly, before grit reaches the inner tie rod.
The inner tie rod screws onto the end of the rack inside the boot. Its ball joint lets the rod swing as the suspension moves.
Signs of wear: Play in the steering, a clunk when turning, or uneven tire wear.
Tip: The same inner rod fits both sides. An alignment is needed after replacing a tie rod.
See all Front Inner Tie Rod End parts for the 2014 Ford Focus
The outer tie rod end threads onto the inner rod. Its stud goes into the steering arm at the rear of the knuckle.
Signs of wear: Loose steering, a knock over bumps, a torn boot, or tires wearing on the edges.
Tip: Left and right ends are different parts. Count the turns when unscrewing the old one to keep the toe close until the alignment.
See all Front Outer Tie Rod End parts for the 2014 Ford Focus
Each front wheel is driven by a CV axle from the transaxle, with a plunging joint at the inner end, a fixed joint at the hub, and a rubber boot over each joint.
Signs of wear: Clicking while turning, a vibration under power, or grease thrown around the inside of the wheel from a split boot.
Tip: Axles differ by transmission (automatic, five speed or six speed manual), so check the transmission.
See all CV Joint Parts - Front parts for the 2014 Ford Focus
The rear knuckle carries the hub. The lower arms, the upper arm, the trailing arm and the shock all attach to it.
Signs of wear: Knuckles rarely wear out, but the bushings in the arms that hold them do.
The wide lower arm behind the axle. Its inner end bolts to the rear of the subframe, the coil spring sits in a pocket near its outer end, the sway bar link bolts to it inboard of the pocket, and its outer end bolts to the knuckle through a bushing.
Signs of wear: A clunk from the rear over bumps, rust around the spring pocket, or a torn outer bushing.
Tip: The spring has to be held with a jack or compressor before the arm is unbolted.
The rear coil spring stands in the pocket of the spring arm and pushes up against the body. The shock is separate.
Signs of wear: A rear corner sitting low, or a broken coil end.
Tip: Replace springs in pairs.
A short straight link ahead of the axle, from a bushing at the subframe's front cross member to a bushing at the knuckle.
Signs of wear: Rear tires wearing on the edges, or a knock from the rear on rough roads.
An eccentric cam bolt with two cam washers. Turning it moves one of the rear lower arms in or out to set the rear toe.
Signs of wear: A cam bolt seized by rust, so the rear toe cannot be set.
Tip: Seized cam bolts often have to be cut out, so a new bolt kit is worth having on hand.
See all Rear End Alignment Kit parts for the 2014 Ford Focus
An arched arm above the axle line, from the subframe to the top of the knuckle. It sets the rear camber.
Signs of wear: A clunk from the rear, or rear tires wearing on the inner edge.
Tip: Adjustable arms are sold for lowered vehicles or to correct camber.
A long flat steel blade. Its rear end bolts flat to the front of the knuckle and its front end carries a bushing bolted into a bracket on the body. It holds the wheel against braking and acceleration.
Signs of wear: A clunk when braking or pulling away, or a torn front bushing.
Tip: Left and right blades are different parts.
The bushing in the front end of the trailing blade. A two hole plate runs through it and bolts up into the body bracket.
Signs of wear: A clunk on braking or a vehicle that steps sideways over bumps.
The rear shock is separate from the spring and stands nearly upright just behind the hub. Its lower eye bolts to the knuckle and its stem goes up into the body, held by a rubber mount.
Signs of wear: Bouncing or floating over bumps, fluid on the body, or a rattle from the rear.
Tip: Replace shocks in pairs, and fit a new upper mount kit at the same time.
The rear sway bar runs across the subframe's front cross member. Its ends bend back to short links on the spring arms.
Signs of wear: More body roll than usual, normally from worn links or bushings.
Two rubber bushings in clamps hold the rear bar to the subframe.
Signs of wear: Squeaks or knocks from the rear over bumps.
Tip: The stock rear bar is 16 mm.
See all Rear Sway Bar Bushings parts for the 2014 Ford Focus
A short link with a ball stud at each end, from the end of the rear bar down to a bracket on the spring arm inboard of the spring.
Signs of wear: A rattle from the rear over small bumps.
See all Rear Sway Bar Endlinks parts for the 2014 Ford Focus
The front bearing is pressed into the knuckle and the hub is pressed into the bearing. The CV axle splines into the hub and is held by the axle nut.
Signs of wear: A hum or growl that changes with speed or when turning, or play when the wheel is rocked.
Tip: Replacing the bearing needs a press.
A vented 278 mm rotor clamped between the hub and the wheel. The ST uses 320 mm rotors and the RS 350 mm.
Signs of wear: A pulsing brake pedal, grooves you can feel, or a lip at the outer edge.
A single piston floating caliper on a bracket bolted to the knuckle.
Signs of wear: A pull to one side under braking, a dragging brake, or a fluid leak.
Tip: The ST and RS use different calipers, so check the trim.
The pads ride in the caliper on each side of the rotor.
Signs of wear: Squealing, grinding, a longer pedal, or pads worn near the backing plate.
Tip: The ST and RS use different pads, so check the trim.
The rear hub bearing bolts to the rear knuckle and carries the wheel studs.
Signs of wear: A hum from the rear that rises with speed, or play when the wheel is rocked.
Tip: Hubs differ with and without active park assist, and the Electric and RS use their own hubs.
See all Rear Wheel Bearing and Hub Assembly parts for the 2014 Ford Focus
A solid 271 mm rear rotor clamped between the hub and the wheel.
Signs of wear: A pulsing pedal when stopping gently, or deep grooves.
Tip: Some models have rear drum brakes instead of discs, so check before ordering.
A single piston rear caliper on a bracket, which also works the cable parking brake.
Signs of wear: A dragging rear brake, a weak parking brake, or a fluid leak.
Tip: Some models have rear drum brakes instead, so check before ordering.
The rear pads ride in the caliper on each side of the rotor.
Signs of wear: Squealing or grinding from the rear, or a parking brake that needs more travel.
Tip: The ST uses its own rear pads on some years, so check the trim.
Some models have rear drum brakes instead of the discs drawn here: two shoes inside a 229 mm drum, worked by a wheel cylinder and the parking brake cable.
Not on every vehicle: Fitted to models with rear drum brakes. The drawing shows the rear disc brakes.
Signs of wear: A weak parking brake, grinding from the rear, or a pedal that sinks lower than before.
Tip: Check whether your car has rear discs or drums before ordering.
Front lower control arms and their rear bushings, front and rear sway bar links, and tie rod ends are the parts most often replaced, followed by rear upper arms and the rear lower arm bushings.
No. The front uses struts, so the strut itself locates the top of the knuckle. There is one lower control arm and one lower ball joint per side. The rear does have an upper arm on each side.
SE, SEL, Titanium and Electric models use a cast aluminium arm with the ball joint pressed in. S and ST models use a stamped steel arm, and its ball joint bolts on with three bolts and can be replaced on its own. The two arms are not interchangeable, so check your trim.
No. Many models have rear disc brakes with a 271 mm rotor, but some have rear drum brakes. Look through the rear wheel or check your trim before ordering rear brake parts.
Yes, after replacing tie rods, struts, control arms or rear links. Front toe is set at the tie rods and rear toe at the rear toe adjuster cam bolt. Adjustable rear upper arms are sold to correct rear camber.
Numbered diagrams to print or save for the shop. The numbers match the numbered parts on the interactive diagram.