Front End Steering Rebuild Kits
Package kits bundle the wearing front end parts in one order, usually for less than buying them one by one.
2014 Mazda 3 Suspension Diagram
This interactive diagram shows the front suspension, steering and rear suspension of the 2014 Mazda 3. Hover over or tap any part to see what it does, the signs that it is worn, and the replacement parts we carry that fit your car, down to the side and position.
2014 Mazda Mazda 3 FWD Suspension Diagram (Full Car)
2014 Mazda Mazda 3 FWD Front Suspension and Steering Diagram
2014 Mazda Mazda 3 FWD Rear Suspension Diagram
We carry parts for it Not stocked yet Hover or tap any part.
The 2014 to 2018 Mazda 3 uses MacPherson struts at the front, with the coil spring on the strut and an L shaped lower control arm under each corner. The steering rack sits behind the front axle, and the front sway bar runs behind the engine with long links up to the struts. The rear is a multi-link design on its own subframe: a wide lower arm carries the coil spring and pivots on the toe adjusting cam, a lateral link runs ahead of the axle, an arched upper arm sits on top, and a trailing arm runs forward to the body. The rear shocks are separate from the springs.
We carry replacement parts for 31 of the 38 components on this diagram, 112 parts in all. See every part for the 2014 Mazda 3.
Packages and kits
Strut and Shock Sets
Front struts and rear shocks for the whole car in one order.
Complete Strut Assemblies
A strut with its spring, mount and boot already assembled, so no spring compressor is needed.
Front and Rear Sway Bar Kits
Front and rear sway bars sold as a set, with bushings and clamps.
Front Suspension
1 Front Strut (driver and passenger side)
The strut is the shock absorber and the upper locating part of the front corner in one. Its bottom clamps to the top of the knuckle with two bolts, the coil spring sits on it, and its top bolts into the strut tower.
Signs of wear: Bouncing after bumps, nose dive under braking, fluid on the body, or a knock from the top of the strut over rough roads.
Tip: Struts are sold bare or as a complete assembly with the spring and mount already fitted. The complete assembly needs no spring compressor.
2 Front Coil Spring (driver and passenger side)
The front coil spring sits on a seat on the strut body and pushes up against the top mount. It carries the weight of the front of the car.
Signs of wear: A front corner sitting lower than the other, a broken coil end, or a clunk when turning the wheel at a stop.
Tip: Replace springs in pairs so both sides sit at the same height.
We don't carry a front coil spring for the 2014 Mazda 3 yet. Ask us about this part and we will try to source it.
3 Front Strut Mount (driver and passenger side)
The strut mount is the rubber and bearing block at the top of the strut. Three studs bolt it to the strut tower, and its bearing lets the strut turn with the steering.
Signs of wear: Clunks or creaks from the top of the strut when steering at low speed, or a steering wheel that does not return to center.
Tip: The mount is often replaced along with the strut, since the strut has to come out either way.
4 Front Strut Bellows and Bump Stop (driver and passenger side)
A rubber bellows covers the strut rod to keep grit off its seal, and the bump stop inside it cushions the strut at full compression. The drawing shows a copy pulled out beside the strut, because the spring hides it.
Signs of wear: A torn or missing boot, a rusty or scored strut rod, or a hard bang over big bumps.
Tip: Fit a new boot and bump stop whenever the strut is replaced.
See all Front Shock Bellows Boot Kit parts for the 2014 Mazda 3
5 Front Camber Bolt (driver and passenger side)
The strut is bolted to the knuckle with two bolts. A camber kit replaces the upper bolt with an eccentric one, so the top of the wheel can be tilted in or out for alignment. The drawing shows a copy pulled out ahead of the strut.
Signs of wear: Tire wear on the inner or outer edge that a normal alignment cannot correct.
Tip: Camber bolts are used after suspension changes or minor damage. An alignment is needed after fitting them.
6 Front Lower Control Arm (driver and passenger side)
An L shaped stamped steel arm. The ball joint at its outer end carries the knuckle, a short front leg pivots on a bushing at the subframe, and a long rear leg ends in a large upright bushing.
Signs of wear: Clunks over bumps, steering that wanders under braking, cracked or torn bushings, or play in the ball joint.
Tip: Left and right arms are different parts. Most replacement arms come with the ball joint and bushings already fitted.
7 Front Lower Control Arm Bushing (driver and passenger side)
Each lower arm has two bushings: a small one in the front leg, on a bolt that runs front to back, and a large one at the end of the rear leg, on an upright bolt. The drawing shows copies of both pulled out.
Signs of wear: Clunks when braking or pulling away, a vague steering feel, or rubber that is cracked or pushed out of its housing.
Tip: Front and rear bushings are different sizes. Polyurethane bushings are sold for each position.
See all Front Control Arm Bushings parts for the 2014 Mazda 3
8 Front Lower Ball Joint (driver and passenger side)
The lower ball joint is pressed into the outer end of the lower arm. Its stud points up into the bottom of the knuckle, where a pinch bolt clamps it. The drawing shows a copy pulled out below the corner.
Signs of wear: Clunks over bumps, a loose feel in the front end, or play when the wheel is rocked top to bottom.
Tip: The joint can be pressed in on its own, or bought already fitted in a new arm.
9 Front Steering Knuckle (driver and passenger side)
The knuckle carries the hub bearing and the brake caliper. The strut clamps to its top, the ball joint sits in its bottom, and its rear arm takes the outer tie rod end.
Signs of wear: Knuckles rarely wear out. A bent knuckle after a curb strike shows as a pull or a crooked steering wheel that an alignment will not fix.
Tip: Not usually replaced on its own unless damaged.
We don't carry a front steering knuckle for the 2014 Mazda 3 yet. Ask us about this part and we will try to source it.
10 Front Sway Bar
The front sway bar runs across the car behind the engine. Its ends step down and reach forward to long links that join it to the struts, so it twists when one side moves more than the other and keeps the car flatter in turns.
Signs of wear: Body roll in turns that feels worse than it used to, usually from worn links or bushings rather than the bar.
Tip: Stiffer aftermarket bars come with their own bushings. Check the bar diameter before ordering bushings.
11 Front Sway Bar Bushing
Two rubber bushings in steel clamps hold the front bar to the subframe. The drawing shows a copy pulled out behind each one.
Signs of wear: Squeaks or knocks from the front over speed bumps, or a bar that moves in its clamps.
Tip: Bushings fit one bar diameter only. Measure the bar, or choose by the bar fitted to your car.
12 Front Sway Bar Link (driver and passenger side)
A long link with a ball stud at each end. The top bolts to a bracket on the strut body and the bottom to the end of the sway bar.
Signs of wear: A rattle or knock from the front over small bumps, or a link that moves by hand.
Tip: Left and right links are listed separately. Replace them in pairs.
Steering
13 Steering Rack and Boots
The rack and pinion sits behind the front axle, on the rear of the subframe. Rubber boots at each end keep dirt off the inner tie rod joints.
Signs of wear: A torn boot, grease around the rack ends, or a clunk felt in the steering wheel.
Tip: Replace a torn boot quickly, before grit reaches the inner tie rod.
14 Inner Tie Rod End (driver and passenger side)
The inner tie rod screws onto the end of the rack inside the boot. Its ball joint lets the rod swing as the suspension moves.
Signs of wear: Play in the steering, a clunk when turning, or uneven tire wear.
Tip: An alignment is needed after replacing a tie rod.
15 Outer Tie Rod End (driver and passenger side)
The outer tie rod end threads onto the inner rod. Its stud points up into the steering arm at the rear of the knuckle.
Signs of wear: Loose steering, a knock over bumps, a torn boot, or tires wearing on the edges.
Tip: Left and right ends are different parts. Count the turns when unscrewing the old one to keep the toe close until the alignment.
Driveline
16 Front CV Axle (driver and passenger side)
Each front wheel is driven by a CV axle from the transaxle, with a plunging joint at the inner end, a fixed joint at the hub, and a rubber boot over each joint.
Signs of wear: Clicking while turning, a vibration under power, or grease thrown around the inside of the wheel from a split boot.
Tip: Boot kits, axle nuts and joint parts are listed here. A split boot should be replaced before the joint wears.
Rear Suspension
25 Rear Knuckle (driver and passenger side)
The rear knuckle carries the hub. Every rear arm, the trailing arm and the shock bolt to it.
Signs of wear: Knuckles rarely wear out, but the bushings pressed into them do.
We don't carry a rear knuckle for the 2014 Mazda 3 yet. Ask us about this part and we will try to source it.
26 Rear Lower Control Arm (Spring Arm) (driver and passenger side)
The wide lower arm behind the axle. Its inner end bolts to the middle of the subframe, the coil spring sits in a pocket in it, and its outer end bolts to the knuckle through a bushing.
Signs of wear: A clunk from the rear over bumps, rust through the spring pocket, or a torn outer bushing.
Tip: Left and right arms are different parts. The spring has to be held with a jack or compressor before the arm is unbolted.
27 Rear Lower Arm Bushing (driver and passenger side)
The bushing in the outer end of the spring arm, where it bolts to the knuckle. The drawing shows a copy pulled out behind the arm.
Signs of wear: A knock from the rear over bumps, or cracked rubber at the knuckle end of the arm.
See all Rear Control Arm Bushings parts for the 2014 Mazda 3
28 Rear Coil Spring (driver and passenger side)
The rear coil spring stands in the pocket of the spring arm and pushes up against the body. The shock is separate, beside it.
Signs of wear: A rear corner sitting low, or a broken coil end.
Tip: Replace springs in pairs.
We don't carry a rear coil spring for the 2014 Mazda 3 yet. Ask us about this part and we will try to source it.
29 Rear Lower Forward Arm (Lateral Link) (driver and passenger side)
A straight tube ahead of the axle, from a bushing at the subframe crossmember to a clevis over a bushing in the knuckle.
Signs of wear: Rear tires wearing on the edges, or a knock from the rear on rough roads.
Tip: Adjustable versions add rear camber and toe range for lowered cars.
30 Rear Toe Adjuster (driver and passenger side)
The eccentric cam bolt at the inner pivot of the spring arm, in slots in the subframe brackets. Turning it moves the arm in or out to set the rear toe. The drawing shows a copy pulled out ahead of it.
Signs of wear: A cam bolt seized by rust, so the rear toe cannot be set.
Tip: Seized cam bolts often have to be cut out, so a new bolt kit is worth having on hand.
31 Rear Upper Control Arm (driver and passenger side)
An arched arm above the spring arm, from the subframe to the top of the knuckle. It sets the rear camber.
Signs of wear: A clunk from the rear, or rear tires wearing on the inner edge.
Tip: The same arm fits both sides.
32 Rear Upper Arm Bushing (driver and passenger side)
The bushings in each end of the upper arm. The drawing shows a copy of the outer one pulled out above it.
Signs of wear: Knocks from the rear or cracked rubber at the arm ends.
Tip: Outer and inner bushings are different parts.
See all Rear Control Arm Bushings parts for the 2014 Mazda 3
33 Rear Trailing Arm (driver and passenger side)
A flat blade bolted to the front of the knuckle with two bolts, running forward to a bushing in a bracket on the body. It holds the wheel against braking and acceleration.
Signs of wear: A clunk when braking or pulling away, or a torn front bushing.
We don't carry a rear trailing arm for the 2014 Mazda 3 yet. Ask us about this part and we will try to source it.
34 Rear Trailing Arm Bushing (driver and passenger side)
The bushing in the front end of the trailing blade, where it bolts to the body bracket. The drawing shows a copy pulled out beside it.
Signs of wear: A clunk on braking or a car that steps sideways over bumps.
35 Rear Shock Absorber (driver and passenger side)
The rear shock stands behind the spring. Its lower eye bolts to the knuckle and its stem goes up into the body.
Signs of wear: Bouncing or floating over bumps, fluid on the body, or a knock from the rear.
Tip: Replace shocks in pairs.
36 Rear Sway Bar
The rear sway bar runs across the car above and behind the spring arms. Short links join its ends to brackets on the spring arms.
Signs of wear: More body roll than usual, normally from worn links or bushings.
37 Rear Sway Bar Bushing
Two rubber bushings in clamps hold the rear bar. The drawing shows a copy pulled out behind each one.
Signs of wear: Squeaks or knocks from the rear over bumps.
Tip: The stock rear bar is 15.5 mm. Aftermarket bars come with their own bushings.
38 Rear Sway Bar Link (driver and passenger side)
A short link with a ball stud at each end, from the end of the rear bar down to a bracket on the spring arm, just inboard of the spring.
Signs of wear: A rattle from the rear over small bumps.
Tip: Left and right links are listed separately on some brands.
Brakes and Hubs
17 Front Wheel Bearing and Hub (driver and passenger side)
The hub bearing assembly bolts to the knuckle with four bolts. The CV axle splines into it and is held by the axle nut.
Signs of wear: A hum or growl that changes with speed or when turning, or play when the wheel is rocked.
Tip: The front hub fits both Japan and Mexico built cars.
See all Front Wheel Bearing and Hub Assembly parts for the 2014 Mazda 3
18 Front Brake Rotor (driver and passenger side)
A vented rotor clamped between the hub and the wheel.
Signs of wear: A pulsing brake pedal, grooves you can feel, or a lip at the outer edge.
Tip: Two sizes are listed: 280 mm on 2.0 L cars and 295 mm on 2.5 L cars. The drawing shows the 280 mm rotor.
19 Front Brake Caliper (driver and passenger side)
A single piston floating caliper on a bracket bolted to the front of the knuckle.
Signs of wear: A pull to one side under braking, a dragging brake, or a fluid leak.
Tip: Calipers are listed by side.
We don't carry a front brake caliper for the 2014 Mazda 3 yet. Ask us about this part and we will try to source it.
20 Front Brake Pads (driver and passenger side)
The pads ride in the caliper on each side of the rotor. The drawing shows them lifted out of the caliper.
Signs of wear: Squealing, grinding, a longer pedal, or pads worn near the backing plate.
Tip: Two pad shapes are listed for these years, so match the pads to your car's rotor size.
21 Rear Wheel Bearing and Hub (driver and passenger side)
The rear hub bearing bolts to the rear knuckle with four bolts.
Signs of wear: A hum from the rear that rises with speed, or play when the wheel is rocked.
Tip: Japan built and Mexico built cars use different rear hubs, so check where your car was built.
See all Rear Wheel Bearing and Hub Assembly parts for the 2014 Mazda 3
22 Rear Brake Rotor (driver and passenger side)
A solid rear rotor clamped between the hub and the wheel.
Signs of wear: A pulsing pedal when stopping gently, or deep grooves.
23 Rear Brake Caliper (driver and passenger side)
A single piston caliper behind the rear axle. It also works the parking brake.
Signs of wear: A dragging rear brake, a weak parking brake, or a fluid leak.
Tip: Rear calipers changed for 2017, so check the year.
We don't carry a rear brake caliper for the 2014 Mazda 3 yet. Ask us about this part and we will try to source it.
24 Rear Brake Pads (driver and passenger side)
The rear pads ride in the caliper on each side of the rotor. The drawing shows them lifted out.
Signs of wear: Squealing or grinding from the rear, or a parking brake that needs more travel.
Tip: Rear pads changed in 2017, so check the year.
Questions about the 2014 Mazda 3 suspension
What are the most common suspension wear items on a 2014 Mazda 3?
Front lower control arms and the front and rear sway bar links are the parts most often replaced on these cars, followed by sway bar bushings, lower ball joints and tie rod ends. A knock over small bumps is most often a sway bar link.
Does the 2014 Mazda 3 have upper control arms at the front?
No. The front uses struts, so the strut itself locates the top of the knuckle. There is one lower control arm and one lower ball joint per side. The rear does have an upper arm on each side.
Are the sedan and the hatchback different underneath?
The suspension layout and the arms are the same. Struts and springs can differ by engine and body, and some parts differ between Japan built and Mexico built cars, so check the notes on each part before ordering.
Do I need an alignment after replacing suspension parts?
Yes, after replacing tie rods, struts, control arms or rear links. Front toe is set at the tie rods and rear toe at the cam bolt on the rear lateral link. Front camber is fixed unless a camber bolt is fitted at the strut.
Which years share this suspension?
The 2014 to 2018 Mazda 3 sedan and hatchback share this layout. The 2013 and earlier cars and the 2019 and later cars are different generations, and almost none of their suspension parts carry over.
Printable 2014 Mazda 3 suspension diagrams
Numbered diagrams to print or save for the shop. The numbers match the numbered parts on the interactive diagram.
