Do It Yourself | Liquid Urethane Motor Mount Inserts

diy liquid urethane motor mount inserts
diy-liquid-urethane-motor-mount-kit

A complete guide to making your own motor mount inserts

By filling the voids in your motor mounts with liquid urethane you can achieve quicker throttle response and more power to the ground without investing a lot of cash. If you’ve already done your research, and you know for sure you want the DIY liquid urethane motor mount insert kit, skip down to the actual process of making a motor mount insert. Be sure to check out the video below for a step-by-step visual aid of the process. If you need a little convincing, keep reading.

But first…

Before you dive into creating your own motor mount insert, its a good idea to understand the few basic principles of motor mount inserts and why you would even want to use them. There are pros and cons, like everything, in making your motor mounts more solid. So before you do, here’s a few pros/cons:

The Pros

  • Increase Horsepower Potential
  • Reduce Wheel Hop
  • More Responsive Motor

The Cons

  • Increase Cabin Vibration
  • Increase Cabin Noise

So taking those pros and cons a bit deeper, the first and foremost reason to firm up your motor mounts is to hold the engine firmly in place. Often the more pliable stock motor mounts allow the engine to move excessively – resulting in wheel hop and loss of power. The more extreme version of this is when an owner has to increase the vehicle’s horsepower more than the stock motor mounts were designed to handle. This can cause tearing of the stock motor mounts as well as damage to the engine and engine bay should the engine be allowed too much movement.

Easily the most frustrating result of solid motor mounts is increased vibration felt by passengers in the vehicle. Stock motor mounts are designed with a fair amount of flex, designed to absorb natural motor vibration and reduce vibration noise. In most cases, this increase in noise and vibration is not terribly significant, however, it is increased by the firmness of the urethane used to fill the mount and the number of mounts that are filled.

Cabin Noise, Really?

The trade-off for increased performance is cabin noise and vibration. The harder, more firm your motor mounts are the more efficiently they will transfer horsepower to the wheels. Likewise, the softer the motor mounts are the less vibration and noise will be transferred to the rest of the vehicle. There are a number of ways to make the trade-off between vibration/noise increase and performance.

liquid urethane motor mount cabin noise

Firming up the Correct Motor Mounts

Most Front Wheel Drive vehicles have several motor mounts, typically 4 or 5. Some of the motor mounts are designed significantly different from the others. TORQUE mounts are the motor mounts designed to reduce the amount of engine movement when power is applied. Main Mounts are the mounts designed to support and hold the weight of the engine.

Torque mounts are the most effective mounts at providing a great rigidity to the engine assembly without transmitting as much natural vibration to the driver. Torque mounts are typically located at the front end or rear of the engine. Main mounts are typically located higher on the engine assembly as the engine weight usually hangs from these.

While it is typically possible to firm up all the mounts on a vehicle – the torque mounts will provide the best trade-off between performance and vibration.

Using a Softer or Harder Universal Motor Mount Insert Formula

With four choices in hardness, there is a formula for any level of desired performance

liquid urethane motor mount durometer choices

There are several firmness or “durometer” levels offered:

  • 60A – For the Daily Driver – This is the softest formula offered that will still make a noticeable difference in vehicle performance. This softer formula is best for tuners that still want to increase performance without trading off as much personal comfort.
  • 80A – Even trade off between performance and vibration – When it comes to motor mount inserts, this formula is the most popular for its ability to significantly increase vehicle performance while still allowing some small amount of flex in the mounts to keep vibration and noise to reasonable levels.
  • 80A HIGH PERFORMANCE – The next best step – A newer version of the most popular choice balances high performance with ride quality, while boasting a higher tear rate and standing up to heat even better.
  • 94A – Race Quality – Not for the daily driver. This formula is the hardest of the 4 available. Providing the best reduction in motor movement – this version will also allow a rather significant amount of engine vibration to be transmitted into the vehicle. Best you can get without going with an aluminum mount.

Instructions –
DIY Motor Mount Inserts

Materials Required for this Project:

All items listed are absolutely required in order to complete this project safely and easily. In total, they shouldn’t cost you more than $10 from your local Home-Depot or Wal-Mart (aside from the actual urethane). Save yourself future frustration and buy these before starting the project!

  • Liquid Urethane – available in the 60A, 80A, 80A High Performance, and 94A
  • Contact Cement – Helps the duct tape seal against greasy surfaces
  • Duct Tape – Seals one side of the mount
  • De-greaser – Cleans the mount of grease and oil
  • SAND – in a box – vital to the project – DO NOT skip this step
  • Level – ensures the mount is level before pouring
  • (optional) Oven – allows for faster curing time
materials for diy urethane motor mount insert

Prepping The Mounts

Step One – CLEAN!

For the urethane to bond correctly and to ease the overall process – the mounts must be thoroughly cleaned of grease and dirt. A little cheap degreaser can go a long way over simple soap. Take the time to use real degreaser – it’s usually just a spray on – spray off process anyway.

cleaning motor mount for liquid urethane insert

Cleaning the mounts with a degreaser will allow the urethane to properly bond to the rubber

Step Two – Sealing One Side

The motor mount inserts are made by pouring a liquid urethane into the voids of the mounts and allowing it to dry. In order to do this, you’ll need to completely seal off one side of the mounts. When you first pour the urethane into the mounts it will have a very liquid consistency. Even the smallest hole in your sealing jobs will allow the urethane to seep out.

adhesive for liquid urethane motor mount preparation

Contact cement will give you an improved seal job to ensure your urethane stays in the mount

The best way to do this is with some contact cement and duct tape. While duct tape alone will usually work – the contact cement will ensure a good seal – especially if there’s any greasy residue on the mounts (the tape will not adhere properly). Start by painting the outside edge and inside circumference of the side of the mount you’re going to seal off – with contact cement. Anywhere you need to be sure there’s a good seal – use this liberally – you’ll be able to pull/scrape it off later.

applying rubber cement to motor mount

Once you’ve set a good layer of contact cement, seal off the mount with the duct tape. Use several strips of tape at different angles from the center of the mount. Continue adding tape around the center of the mount until you’ve sealed it off completely. Some users won’t have the center sleeve sticking out of one side and won’t have to work around it – either way just keep adding tape until it’s properly sealed off.

sealing the motor mount with duct tape

Duct tape is cheap – so use as much as necessary until you feel good about the job – then add a little more.

motor mount sealed with duct tape

The better the tape job, the better the mount will turn out

Setting Up the Mounts

It’s important that the mounts are completely level before you pour the urethane into them. If they’re laying at an angle the mount will not turn out right.

Prepare a small box of sand for the mounts. Setting the mounts into the sand will serve two purposes:

  1. Allow a perfectly level placement – even if there are protrusions from the mounts that would otherwise make it sit screwy
  2. Help seal off any small holes in your sealing job. If the hole is small, a little urethane will leak out into the sand and the sand will help it congeal faster – effectively sealing the hole in the mount
using sand to level motor mount for liquid urethane

DO NOT attempt to do this without the sandbox. While it is possible to do so – using the sandbox will help ensure you do the job right the first time. Once you mix the urethane, you’ll only have 15-20 minutes of working time before the urethane is to firm to pour. You won’t have enough time to decide you SHOULD have used the sandbox.

do not skip using sand to level motor mount

Don’t skip the sand and the level, once you mix the urethane you won’t have time to realize you shouldn’t have skipped this step

Mixing the Urethane

DO NOT DO THIS UNTIL YOU’RE 100% Ready to Pour!

The correct mixing ratio is absolutely VITAL to the urethane setting correctly. That’s why each set comes in a pre-measured container. Do not attempt to use only PART of a kit – doing so may cause the urethane to not set correctly.

Each kit should include:

  • Urethane – in the hardness level you ordered. Comes in small paint can style container
  • Activator – a very liquid substance in a small bottle
  • Stirring Stick
contents of liquid urethane kit

Before doing ANYTHING with these substances read through all the warnings and adhere to them! Most importantly – mix and use these outside in a well ventilated area.

open liquid urethane kit in a ventilated area

Remove the lid from the larger paint can containing the urethane and set it aside. Take the bottle of activator and shake it well before adding it to the urethane.

mix the liquid urethane and activator

Thoroughly mix the activator and urethane with the provided mixing stick.

stir the liquid urethane kit

Be sure to scrape the sides of the can and even scrape off the stirring stick to ensure you’ve mixed all of the urethane in with the activator.

Once you’ve mixed the urethane and activator you’re ready to pour it into the mount! Once the urethane is mixed you only have about 15-20 minutes before it begins to firm up!

Pouring the Urethane

Slowly pour the mixed urethane into the open side of the mounts. Allow for the urethane to fill all the voids in the mount. It may take a minute for it to settle completely flat – so take your time. If it seems to be leaking out a LITTLE – don’t panic – the sand will help clot the urethane in the hole and slow the leak.

Fill the mounts to the top – it’s even OK if some spills over the outside edge.

Once the mounts are full wait about 10 minutes. In 10 minutes the urethane should still be very liquid and you can top off the mounts with the remaining urethane in the can. This is particularly important if you have a small leak in the sealed side of the mount. Don’t wait longer than 20 minutes to check up on the mounts as by that time the urethane will start to become less workable.

To fully cure at room temperature the urethane takes 7 days, but if you have a way to maintain a temperature of 150 degrees, such as an oven, the urethane will cure in around 18 hours.

pouring the liquid urethane mix
motor mount filled with liquid urethane

A Job Not So Well Done

It is very important that you use sand. If you do a poor job of setting up the mount in your sand, your results can be disastrous. If there is any type of hole in your sealing job, the urethane can seep out. The sand can stop that, so be sure to pack the sand under the mount in order to clog any leak. If not, you get this:

how not to pour a liquid urethane motor mount

If the urethane seeps out like this, you’re final product will be less than desired. Check out the mount we did with a poor sand job:

poorly sealed liquid urethane motor mount

The Finished Product

By the next day you should be able to take the mounts out of the sandbox and remove the tape from the opposite side. Sometimes if you had a small leak you’ll find small clumps of sand attached to the other side – these pry/peel off easily and will not affect your new mounts.

after pouring a liquid urethane motor mount

The tape should pull off easily and if you want to clean them up further you can scrape off the left over contact cement – however if you really don’t care too much you could even leave the tape on – it won’t hurt anything.

removing the seal on the motor mount
trimming away excess urethane

Finished “Do It Yourself” Motor Mounts

finished diy liquid urethane motor mount insert

Additional Notes For Users

Some users have asked if this will work for their mounts if the center portion has completely torn away from the rest of the mount. The answer: YES! The only additional consideration is the correct centering/alignment of the mounting point that goes through the mount. While the sandbox will make it significantly easier to do this – special care will be needed to ensure centering and alignment.

Disclaimer

In using these instructions and urethane kits you accept complete responsibility for the outcome of your project. Only you can ensure this is done correctly and we will not be held responsible if your mounts do not turn out like you wanted.

A significant amount of information has been provided here – however some projects may be unique and will need special attention or a different mode of creation. While we’re happy to help with any questions – we cannot guarantee the outcome of your particular project.

You may not copy, post or reproduce this “How To” information or pictures without written consent from Diverse Suspension Technologies.

37 comments
  1. alex
    alex
    January 21, 2017 at 8:22 pm

    How many liquid ounces of activated product??? No information on the bottles, post, or video?

    Reply
    • Josh Daniels
      Josh Daniels
      February 10, 2017 at 8:11 am

      Hey Alex,

      We looked around and couldn’t find a satisfactory answer to your question, but we here at DST do not know the word “defeat”, so what did we do? We cracked open a can of urethane, mixed it up, and poured it into a measuring cup.

      When everything settled, it came out to 400mL which is roughly 13.52fl oz or 1 2/3 cups. We hope this helps!

      Reply
  2. Jimmy King
    Jimmy King
    January 26, 2017 at 6:35 pm

    That’s sweet and pretty easy to do yourself I like it.

    Reply
    • Josh Daniels
      Josh Daniels
      February 8, 2017 at 9:34 am

      Thanks Jimmy,

      The process isn’t too hard and it’s awesome to be able to tell your buddies, “I made my own motor mounts”.

      Has anyone had success with pouring their own urethane motor mounts? Please post pictures or tell us how it turned out!

      Reply
  3. Jimmy King
    Jimmy King
    January 26, 2017 at 6:38 pm

    I love moogs replacement parts there all I buy for my 06 cobalt..

    Reply
    • Josh Daniels
      Josh Daniels
      February 8, 2017 at 9:35 am

      We love Moog too Jimmy!

      Moog is the official suspension of NASCAR and every cup champion for the last 50 years has used Moog ball joints and in those 50 years they have never had one fail.

      Moog has a great history and they are always innovating, like with the new integral dust boot on some of their ball joints that holds it’s seal longer than the traditional design and has less of a chance of being torn because of its low profile.

      Moog is just a great brand that we’re happy to provide to people who need reliable replacements.

      Happy trails.

      Reply
  4. fdc
    fdc
    March 22, 2017 at 2:10 pm

    hey i will like to have psi ratio for eatch grade sound to be 1800 psi for the 95a is it right?
    so its should be higher then 3m High Viscosity urethane work at 1000psi ?
    and the dry time 24h per support? need to make hole to prevent air buble?

    Reply
    • Josh Daniels
      Josh Daniels
      March 24, 2017 at 1:16 pm

      Hey Friend,

      The tensile strength of the 94A is around 3120 psi and that of the 60A is 1250 psi. Most of the urethane products I found from 3M were purposed for windshield adhesive so the tensile strength was considerably lower than this urethane, which is meant for more heavy duty purposes such as motor mounts. The curing time is listed at 24-48 hours at a temperature of 77 degrees.

      As we are skirting the edge of my understanding of chemistry I will link these fact sheets for the 94A urethane and 60A urethane products that we carry. These should be able to answer any other technical questions you might have, but if not let us know and we will get you an answer, if one can be found.

      To answer your question about the air bubble prevention we would need a little more information about the application for which you might be using the liquid urethane kit. You can give us a call at 1-888-406-2330 to discuss it in more detail.

      Thanks for the questions!

      Reply
  5. ZEESHAN
    ZEESHAN
    March 24, 2017 at 4:02 pm

    Would like to know this kit covers how many mounts … i have a honda civic 2000 non si d16y8 auto

    Reply
    • Chelsea Baker
      Chelsea Baker
      March 27, 2017 at 10:27 am

      Hello Zeeshan!

      That’s a great question! The feedback we have been given from other customers is that a kit can cover from 2 to 4 mounts. Unfortunately, it’s really impossible for us to say. Different factors could affect the outcome, such as the size of the mounts or the amount of wear and tear on the mounts. I can tell you each kit, with components completely mixed and settled, yields 400 ml or 1 2/3 cups.

      If you have any other questions or concerns, you can live chat or call our amazing customer service team.

      Reply
  6. Clint Comer
    Clint Comer
    March 28, 2017 at 7:36 am

    Hello. This looks like a very interesting product, but I’m wondering if it could be used for other applications. I am looking to cast custom radiator mounts (isolation pads) and I’m thinking the 60A might just work. I am using an aluminum radiator on a steel framework, so my main concern is vibration and fretting, wearing through the aluminum radiator. If you have any other suggestions for a better option, please feel free to share.

    Clint Comer

    Reply
    • Josh Daniels
      Josh Daniels
      April 3, 2017 at 10:12 am

      Hey Clint,

      We love that people are using this kit to innovate and come up with some new DIY projects! Polyurethane can definitely function as a radiator isolation pad, but the specific durometer is going to be a preference choice.

      The “softest” formula we offer is the 60A which, while setting up firmly, will still allow some give. The 94A is the most rigid of the formulas and the 80A and 80A High Performance sit in between the two. In any case, polyurethane provides a stiff connection while absorbing vibration, so there are definate possibilities for making your own radiator mounts. I can reference some fact sheets that we have on the 94A urethane and 60A urethane to give you a better idea of the properties of these products and help you decide which might be best for your purposes.

      Has anyone else tried using one of these kits for a DIY radiator mount, or some other application? We would love to hear about it!

      Reply
  7. Aaron Nickolopoulos
    Aaron Nickolopoulos
    March 30, 2017 at 4:09 pm

    What is the mixing ratio between the urethane and activator if you don’t want to waste it all for one mount? I heard 10:1 by weight, so 100 grams of urethane to 10 grams of activator? Is this correct?

    Reply
    • Josh Daniels
      Josh Daniels
      April 3, 2017 at 9:02 am

      Hey Aaron,

      We love experiments! But in this case we have to stick with the instructions.

      The manufacture is pretty serious about these urethane kits being premeasured to exact amounts. Once you start trying to separate a specific portion (including the unmixed chemicals) and save some for later you are playing with some delicate ratios and the quality of the end product can’t be guaranteed. We’re not saying that it can’t be done, but we are saying “don’t do it” in the “we’re not responsible for what happens if the instructions aren’t followed exactly” sense.

      Because of this we would suggest using the entire can and pouring inserts for all of your motor mounts since you need to mix all of the components to achieve the proper chemical compound and the mixed product will set up after about 20 minutes. We love it when people find different ways to use this product but we can’t say for certain that it will set right if the mixing directions are not followed exactly. We urge caution if you decide to not follow the directions and wish you luck.

      That said, has anyone else tried using only part of the activator and urethane? Did it set correctly?

      Reply
  8. Edwin Lingle
    Edwin Lingle
    May 19, 2017 at 3:52 pm

    If I wanted to speed the cure time up, could I use a climate controlled paint booth. Will this help?

    Reply
  9. john villegas
    john villegas
    June 28, 2017 at 6:57 pm

    what are the heat ranges as i have a mount that is under a exhaust manifold.

    Reply
    • Josh Daniels
      Josh Daniels
      July 3, 2017 at 3:29 pm

      Hey John,

      This is a tricky question since it will depend on the formation and other factors that could affect the formation of the final product. I’m still waiting on some confirmation from another source, but what I have so far says the 80A High Performance kit can operate between -40°F and 195°F. I will double check those numbers and get back to you hopefully by the end of the week (because of the holiday).

      Has anyone used a polyurethane mount near the exhaust manifold with good or bad results?

      Thanks for the question John, and I’ll get back to you when I have another source to confirm those numbers.

      Reply
  10. Martin
    Martin
    February 9, 2018 at 3:21 am

    I want to make new mounts for a car where noise and vibration isolation is of paramount importance. I has a set of old worn ones which I removed.

    The rubber in the old mounts is crushed solid so I would remove it all so that I’m left with only the clean metal parts. I would use 60A urethane.

    My question is: should I make removable inserts to create the pockets of the original mount or should I make it solid? It seems that a solid mount leaves no room for much movement of the central spigot whereas with rubber-free pockets, the central spigot has freedom to move slightly in all directions and damp out more of the energy of the vibration.

    Reply
    • Josh Daniels
      Josh Daniels
      February 12, 2018 at 11:08 am

      Hey Martin,

      That’s a tricky question. First off since most rubber sits around 50A durometer the 60A polyurethane is a pretty comparable fit.

      Second, voids will typically reduce the NVH that makes it’s way from the engine but in some cases voids can actually increase NVH. SuperPro is a poly bushing manufacturer that has experimented with voids in poly bushings and after a good deal of trial and error came up with a specific configuration of voids that produced the desired result for some of their motor and differential bushings.

      superpro voided polyurethane bushing

      All this to say, it’s not really possible to know that making your own voids will decrease the NVH in your vehicle and it could be a long process to find the right shape, size, etc. void for your mount.

      Good luck Martin and if you do some experimenting let us know how it turns out.

      Reply
  11. David Au
    David Au
    March 8, 2018 at 8:35 pm

    Do I need 1 kit per mount? Or should I do a dry run with sand to see about how much one of my mounts I’ll take.???
    I want to make sure I have enough for my 3 mounts on my Dodge Neon.

    Reply
    • Josh Daniels
      Josh Daniels
      March 12, 2018 at 7:31 am

      Hey David,

      Using sand to get a rough estimate is an interesting idea, unfortunately I can’t vouch for how accurate it might be. The urethane does settle after it’s been poured and should be topped off after about 20 minutes so that might throw off your numbers a bit.

      If I knew the year model of your Neon I could make a more informed guess, but I can’t really say for certain how much urethane you’ll need. To be safe I would say one kit per mount but that will almost certainly be overkill. The mount used in the article is from a Honda Del Sol so it is probably comparable to your Neon and it took about 3/4 of a can. Just remember, once you mix the activator you can’t save any of the urethane for later, it’s “use it” or “use it as a paper weight”.

      Good luck with those motor mounts David.

      Reply
  12. Alan Millin
    Alan Millin
    March 22, 2018 at 7:34 am

    I’m building a 1955 Chevy truck on a S10 frame. The stock leave springs have a front cushion that is no longer available. Can I use this product to cast pads, and if so, which formula should I use. I’d use one of your body bushings for this purpose, but I need a width of at least 3”.

    Reply
    • Josh Daniels
      Josh Daniels
      March 22, 2018 at 3:48 pm

      Hey Alan,

      I spoke with our ASE certified mechanic and he said you should be fine using a mold and pouring your own pads. He suggested using the 80A High Performance which will last you much longer than a rubber alternative and still offer a little give so the ride isn’t too rough.

      If you have any other concerns or questions please feel free to contact our customer service staff and we would love to know how the pads turn out.

      Good luck with the build, Alan.

      Reply
  13. B. Vanderhoof
    B. Vanderhoof
    July 21, 2018 at 10:52 am

    The amount for the Neon would probably be one kit .
    I poured the torsion mounts upper and lower big end only for my Pt cruiser and only used half the product .

    AT the time I bought the product there were only two durometer available ( that I know of ) I bought the softer and it turns out that for my driving the product is too hard giving engine vibration and noise that is a bit excessive . That could possibly be mitigated by not filling the void completely level full as when that is done there is much more material in the available space than the factory mounts use . Even so my finished product is much less harsh than a tubular racing design torque mount I had been using .
    I had to do something because any of the factory mounts used in my turbo PT would break very easily ( not racing ) .

    Reply
    • Josh Daniels
      Josh Daniels
      July 27, 2018 at 8:27 am

      Thanks for sharing your experience!

      We do offer 4 different durometers from 60A to 94A covering the daily driver and the track car, and yeah, polyurethane is going to give you a better performance-to-smoothness ratio than metal alternatives.

      In theory not filling the void completely should be fine, but your results might vary in terms of increased throttle response and longevity. Another alternative I have heard of is sticking foam or another soft material in the mount as you pour in the poly, making your own voids as it were. Can anybody vouch for this working?

      Thanks again.

      Reply
  14. Gerrity Kan
    Gerrity Kan
    August 27, 2018 at 8:29 pm

    What is the total ready to install and drive *curing* time?

    Reply
    • Josh Daniels
      Josh Daniels
      August 29, 2018 at 7:49 am

      Hey Gerrity,

      The minimum curing time for this DIY Urethane product is 7 days. You can accelerate the process considerably by sticking the project in the oven at 150° and the mounts should be good to go in approximately 18 hours. Caution: Make sure you don’t move the mounts around too much while the urethane is still setting up. Once you’ve topped off the mount give it a day before moving it to allow it to firm up and maintain it’s shape.

      Feel free to shoot us any more questions and good luck if you decide to pour your own inserts!

      Reply
  15. Fred Moore
    Fred Moore
    September 30, 2018 at 1:59 pm

    I have a 1966 Pontiac Star Chief Executive that my dad bought new and I am in the process of restoring. The automatoc transmission has a support that runs attaches to both frame sides and the support actually is inserted in the rubber mount that is then bolted to the frame. The rubber is about 1 inch thick and about 1/2 inch surrounds the flat cross support. This part is not available anywhere and I think the poured polyurethane can be an effective solution. However, I have no clue as to stiffness. It feels at least as soft as the owls radiator support pads. Suggestions or thoughts? Is the 80a a good bet or softer/harder. No clue. I have already purchased a few of your suspension products for this rebuild.

    Reply
    • Krissy Rose
      Krissy Rose
      October 1, 2018 at 2:01 pm

      Hey Fred,

      That sounds like a fun project you’ve got there! As far as the durometer for your DIY job, it really depends on what you’re looking to do with your Pontiac. If you want to use this as your daily driver or just restore your car a 60A durometer would give you more longevity and only be a touch harder than rubber. If you’re looking for a little bit of a performance upgrade in your throttle response then an 80A is your ticket. Now, if you want to soup-up your Star Chief or race it then you might consider going up to an 80A H.P or 94A to keep everything in place when you really take off.

      Do it Yourself Liquid Urethane Motor Mount Replacement Choices

      Reply
  16. joe
    joe
    December 4, 2018 at 7:53 pm

    B. Vanderhoof said he used half of the kit, could you tell us how you measured the mixed percentage? thanks
    I understand seller suggested full mix, used to have experience of mix ratio for epoxy, some has 1:xx ratio hard to do, some has 1:1 ratio easier to be done.

    Reply
  17. Michael Trevino
    Michael Trevino
    February 28, 2019 at 12:41 am

    I used the 80AHP, I’ll have to admit it does rattle the car during starting and idle but I don’t mind, after doing the front and rear mounts on my car I had almost half of it left I left it in the can and now use it for a pad for the floor jack , do follow the directions! And I used a toaster oven the cure it 35$ It fit both mounts, get a larger oven for bigger mounts like one out of an old camper (safety first) I can feel the difference in takeoff and cornering don’t get me wrong it’s not like Nascar but it’s nice, it is well worth the time and money!!!

    Reply
    • Josh Daniels
      Josh Daniels
      March 1, 2019 at 2:39 pm

      Hey Michael,

      Glad to hear the mounts are working out for you! They definitely do provide a bit of a rougher ride but you get a lot quicker throttle response for the trade.

      Great tips about using the toaster oven for speeding up the curing process and the jack pad. It can be hard to tell how much urethane you’ll actually need for a project, but if you have extra that’s a creative use. True DIY spirit.

      Thanks for sharing your experience! If you have any pictures of the process or results we would love to see them (datateam@suspension.com).

      Have a good one Michael.

      Reply
  18. ROBERT S JANOWSKI
    ROBERT S JANOWSKI
    April 21, 2019 at 2:55 pm

    Can this be used for suspension bushings? I have jeep liberty with independent front suspension. The bushings that hold the front differential to the frame have been discontinued and no one has ever made a replacement. The bushings have 3 separate voids that can be filled. Some of the rubber is torn. Im thinking the 80a performance . Thanks.

    Reply
    • Josh Daniels
      Josh Daniels
      April 23, 2019 at 7:43 am

      Hey Robert,

      Talked with Edwin, our resident auto tech, and he said you should be able to fill the voids with polyurethane. Without seeing the condition of the bushings he can’t be 100% about how effective it will be but if there isn’t too much tearing or damage it should work fine.

      Another option, that is more of a long shot, is checking the dimensions and selecting a universal polyurethane bushing. If you find one that will fit you can have even more longevity and stability from the front diff.

      Hope this helps and if you have any other questions please let us know here or give us a chat or call.

      Reply
  19. Jon Schiereck
    Jon Schiereck
    June 11, 2019 at 7:26 am

    Just used it for my 2002 Boxster S motor mount and the two transmission mounts, as well as filled in the new front strut mounts I got where the rubber was hollowed out. Super easy to work with. They’re all in an oven right now actually, coming up on 12 hours lol

    Reply
    • Josh Daniels
      Josh Daniels
      June 12, 2019 at 9:00 am

      Hey Jon,

      That sounds like quite a project! Hope the write up we did of the process was helpful. You should have a much more responsive throttle with the motor and transmission mounts filled with poly.

      I would caution you that putting polyurethane suspension bushings throughout the whole car is going to make your handling a lot sharper but can also increase road noise and vibration transfer. It’s a bit of a trade-off, but if you appreciate precise control over your vehicle then the benefits will probably outweigh the costs.

      If you have any tips or if you would like to share some pictures of your work please feel free. Thanks for the comments and let us know how it all turns out.

      Reply
  20. Jon schiereck
    Jon schiereck
    June 11, 2019 at 7:31 am

    I’m going to order another batch and do my control arm bushings and rear strut mounts, and every other bushing I can find on this car

    Reply

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