Complete Strut Assemblies
A strut with its spring, mount and boot already assembled, so no spring compressor is needed.
This interactive diagram shows the front suspension, steering and rear suspension of the 2010 Mercury Mariner. Hover over or tap any part to see what it does, the signs that it is worn, and the replacement parts we carry that fit your Mariner, down to the side and position.
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The 2010 Mercury Mariner shares its suspension with the 2008 to 2012 Ford Escape: MacPherson struts at the front, with the coil spring on the strut and an L shaped lower control arm under each corner. The steering rack sits behind the front axle, with the power assist in the steering column, and the front sway bar runs along the back of the front subframe with links hanging from the struts. The rear is a multi-link design: the rear knuckle is cast in one piece with a trailing arm that runs forward to the body, three lateral arms (lower, lower forward and upper) tie it to the subframe, the coil spring stands on the knuckle and the shock is separate. Most models have rear drum brakes. Four wheel drive models add a propshaft, a rear drive unit and rear halfshafts, marked on the rear view.
We carry replacement parts for 30 of the 40 components on this diagram, 95 parts in all. See every part for the 2010 Mercury Mariner.
A strut with its spring, mount and boot already assembled, so no spring compressor is needed.
The strut is the shock absorber and the upper locating part of the front corner in one. Its lower end is a clevis bolted to the knuckle with two bolts, the coil spring sits on it, and its top bolts into the strut tower.
Signs of wear: Bouncing after bumps, nose dive under braking, fluid on the tube, or a knock from the top of the strut over rough roads.
Tip: Struts are sold bare or as a complete assembly with the spring and mount already fitted. The complete assembly needs no spring compressor.
See all Front Shock Absorber parts for the 2010 Mercury Mariner
The front coil spring sits on a seat on the strut tube and pushes up against the top mount. It carries the weight of the front of the vehicle. Four cylinder and V6 models use different springs.
Signs of wear: A front corner sitting lower than the other, a broken coil end, or a clunk when turning the wheel at a stop.
Tip: Replace springs in pairs, and check the engine (2.5 L four cylinder or 3.0 L V6) before ordering.
See all Front Coil Springs parts for the 2010 Mercury Mariner
The top mount bolts the strut to the strut tower with four studs and carries a bearing so the strut can turn with the steering. The upper spring seat sits under it.
Signs of wear: A clunk or creak from the top of the strut when turning or going over bumps, or a strut top that has sagged.
Tip: Most complete strut assemblies include a new mount.
See all Front Strut Mount parts for the 2010 Mercury Mariner
A rubber boot over the strut rod with the bump stop inside it. The boot keeps dirt off the rod and the bump stop softens full compression.
Signs of wear: A torn boot, or a harsh bang over big bumps.
Tip: Replace the boot and bump stop whenever the strut is replaced.
An L shaped stamped arm under each front corner. Its outer end holds the ball joint under the knuckle, its front leg ends in a bushing at the side of the subframe, and its rear leg ends in an upright bushing at the back of the subframe.
Signs of wear: A clunk from the front over bumps, wandering on the highway, or uneven tire wear on the inside edge.
Tip: Complete arms come with new bushings and a new ball joint already fitted.
See all Front Control Arm parts for the 2010 Mercury Mariner
Two rubber bushings hold each lower arm to the subframe: a forward bushing in the front leg and a larger upright bushing in the rear leg.
Signs of wear: A clunk under braking, steering that pulls when braking, or cracked and split rubber.
Tip: Pressing bushings needs a press or a bushing tool. A complete arm is often the quicker repair.
See all Front Control Arm Bushings parts for the 2010 Mercury Mariner
The ball joint at the outer end of the lower arm. Its stud goes up into the bottom of the knuckle, held by a pinch bolt, and lets the knuckle pivot as the wheel steers and moves up and down.
Signs of wear: A knock from the front over bumps, play when the wheel is rocked top to bottom, or a torn boot.
Tip: Inspect it whenever the lower arm or the knuckle is off.
See all Front Lower Ball Joint parts for the 2010 Mercury Mariner
The knuckle carries the hub and bearing. The strut bolts to its top, the ball joint to its bottom, the tie rod to its rear steering arm and the brake caliper to its front.
Signs of wear: Knuckles rarely wear out, but a bent knuckle after a curb strike throws the alignment off.
Tip: Complete knuckle assemblies come with the hub and bearing already pressed in.
See all Front Lowering Spindles parts for the 2010 Mercury Mariner
The front sway bar runs across the back of the front subframe and its ends reach forward to links that hang from the struts.
Signs of wear: Body roll in turns, or a knock if the bar has come loose in its mounts.
Two rubber bushings in clamps hold the front sway bar to the back of the subframe.
Signs of wear: A squeak or clunk over bumps and in slow turns.
Tip: Replace both sides together.
See all Front Sway Bar Bushings parts for the 2010 Mercury Mariner
A long link with a ball stud at each end, from a tab on the strut tube down to the end of the sway bar.
Signs of wear: A rattle or clunk from the front over small bumps.
Tip: Replace links in pairs.
See all Front Sway Bar Endlinks parts for the 2010 Mercury Mariner
Listed here, not drawn: an offset bolt kit that replaces one of the two bolts holding the strut to the knuckle, to set front camber.
Signs of wear: Uneven tire wear on the inner or outer edge that a normal alignment can't correct.
Tip: An alignment is needed after fitting it.
See all Front End Alignment Kit parts for the 2010 Mercury Mariner
A rack and pinion steering gear behind the front axle on the subframe. On this Escape the electric power assist is in the steering column, not on the rack.
Signs of wear: Clunking through the steering wheel, or play at the wheel.
A rubber boot at each end of the rack that seals the inner tie rod joint.
Signs of wear: A torn or split boot, with dirt or grease around the rack end.
Tip: Replace a torn boot quickly, before dirt reaches the inner tie rod.
See all Steering Rack Bellow parts for the 2010 Mercury Mariner
The inner tie rod screws into the end of the rack inside the boot and carries the outer tie rod end.
Signs of wear: Play in the steering, a clunk when turning, or tire wear on the edges.
Tip: Escapes built from June 4, 2009 use the 14 mm thread inner and outer tie rods shown for these years.
See all Front Inner Tie Rod End parts for the 2010 Mercury Mariner
The outer tie rod end threads onto the inner tie rod and its stud goes up through the knuckle's steering arm, behind the axle.
Signs of wear: Wandering, play in the steering, or a torn boot.
Tip: Count the turns when unscrewing it so the toe stays close until the alignment.
See all Front Outer Tie Rod End parts for the 2010 Mercury Mariner
A drive shaft with a constant velocity joint at each end, from the transaxle or the intermediate shaft out to the hub.
Signs of wear: Clicking when turning, or grease thrown from a torn boot.
See all CV Joint Parts - Front parts for the 2010 Mercury Mariner
The rear drive unit on four wheel drive models, between the rear lower arms, driven by the propshaft.
Not on every vehicle: Fitted only to four wheel drive (AWD) models. Front wheel drive models have no propshaft, rear drive unit or rear halfshafts.
Signs of wear: A whine or clunk from the rear.
The propshaft from the power transfer unit back to the rear drive unit, with a support bearing and U-joints at its ends.
Not on every vehicle: Fitted only to four wheel drive (AWD) models. Front wheel drive models have no propshaft, rear drive unit or rear halfshafts.
Signs of wear: A clunk when pulling away, or a vibration that rises with speed.
On four wheel drive models a halfshaft runs from the rear drive unit out to each rear hub.
Not on every vehicle: Fitted only to four wheel drive (AWD) models. Front wheel drive models have no propshaft, rear drive unit or rear halfshafts.
Signs of wear: Clicking or a vibration from the rear.
See all CV Joint Parts - Rear parts for the 2010 Mercury Mariner
The rear knuckle is cast in one piece with a long arm that runs forward to a bushing in a body bracket. It carries the hub and drum, the coil spring seat, and the ends of the three lateral arms and the shock.
Signs of wear: The knuckle rarely wears out, but its forward bushing does.
A large rubber bushing in the eye at the front of the rear knuckle's forward arm, bolted into a bracket on the body.
Signs of wear: A clunk from the rear when pulling away or braking, or rear tires that wear unevenly.
Tip: The bushing is pressed in and out of the knuckle's eye.
See all Trailing Arm Bushings parts for the 2010 Mercury Mariner
A straight stamped arm behind the axle line, from a bushing at the rear cross member out to a ball joint under the knuckle.
Signs of wear: A clunk from the rear over bumps, or tire wear on the inner edge.
Tip: Replace in pairs and have the rear alignment checked.
A second lower arm ahead of the axle line, from a bushing on the subframe to a ball joint on the knuckle. It sets the rear toe.
Signs of wear: Rear tires wearing on the edges, or a knock from the rear on rough roads.
Tip: An alignment is needed after replacing it.
A straight arm above the axle line, from a bushing high on the subframe to a ball joint at the top of the knuckle. It sets the rear camber.
Signs of wear: Rear tires wearing on the inside edge, or a clunk from the rear.
Tip: Adjustable upper arms are sold to correct rear camber.
The rear coil spring stands on a cup on the knuckle and pushes up against the body. The shock is separate.
Signs of wear: A rear corner sitting low, or a broken coil end.
Tip: Replace springs in pairs.
See all Rear Coil Springs parts for the 2010 Mercury Mariner
A rubber bump stop that hangs from the body inside the rear coil spring and softens full compression.
Signs of wear: A harsh bang from the rear over big bumps.
The rear shock stands just behind the hub, from an eye in the knuckle up to a stem mount in the body.
Signs of wear: Bouncing after bumps, a floaty rear on the highway, or fluid on the body.
Tip: Replace in pairs.
See all Rear Shock Absorber parts for the 2010 Mercury Mariner
The rear sway bar is clamped to the rear cross member behind the lower arms. Its ends run out to short links on the knuckles.
Signs of wear: Body roll in turns.
Two rubber bushings in clamps hold the rear bar to the rear cross member.
Signs of wear: A squeak or clunk from the rear.
Tip: Replace both sides together.
See all Rear Sway Bar Bushings parts for the 2010 Mercury Mariner
A short link from the end of the rear bar down to a bracket on the knuckle beside the spring.
Signs of wear: A rattle from the rear over small bumps.
Tip: Replace links in pairs.
See all Rear Sway Bar Endlinks parts for the 2010 Mercury Mariner
Listed here, not drawn: an eccentric bolt kit for setting rear toe at one of the rear arm pivots.
Signs of wear: Rear tires wearing on the edges after a rear arm or bushing replacement.
Tip: An alignment is needed after fitting it.
See all Rear End Alignment Kit parts for the 2010 Mercury Mariner
The front hub and its bearing sit in the knuckle. The CV shaft passes through the middle and is held by the axle nut.
Signs of wear: A hum or growl that changes with speed, or play when the wheel is rocked.
See all Front Wheel Bearing and Hub Assembly parts for the 2010 Mercury Mariner
The vented front disc, 303 mm across, held on the hub by the wheel.
Signs of wear: A pulsing pedal or scoring on the disc.
Tip: Replace in pairs.
See all Front Brake Rotor parts for the 2010 Mercury Mariner
The front caliper sits ahead of the axle on a bracket bolted to the knuckle.
Signs of wear: Pulling to one side when braking, or a sticking caliper.
The pads sit in the caliper, one on each side of the disc.
Signs of wear: Squealing, grinding, or a long pedal.
Tip: Replace both sides together.
The rear brakes are drums, 254 mm across inside, over the rear hub. The shoes inside also work as the parking brake.
Signs of wear: A grinding noise from the rear, a parking brake that will not hold, or a pulsing pedal.
Tip: Replace drums in pairs.
Listed here, not drawn: the shoes sit inside the rear drum on the backing plate.
Signs of wear: Grinding from the rear, or a parking brake that needs a high lever.
Tip: Adjust the shoes after fitting.
The rear hub and bearing on the knuckle, inside the drum.
Signs of wear: A hum or growl from the rear that changes with speed.
Listed here, not drawn: some 2008 to 2010 models have rear disc brakes (rotor, caliper and pads) in place of the drums shown.
Not on every vehicle: Fitted to some 2008 to 2010 models in place of rear drums.
Signs of wear: A pulsing pedal or scoring on the rear disc.
Tip: Check whether your vehicle has rear drums or rear discs before ordering.
Front sway bar links, front lower control arms and their bushings, tie rod ends and the rear lower and upper control arms with their ball joints are the parts most often replaced, followed by the rear trailing arm bushings.
No. The front uses struts, so the strut itself locates the top of the knuckle. There is one lower control arm and one lower ball joint per side. The rear has an upper arm and two lower arms on each side.
The arms, links and struts are shared. Four wheel drive models add a propshaft with U-joints, a rear drive unit and rear halfshafts. Check the drive type on driveline parts before ordering.
Most have rear drum brakes, which the diagram shows. Some have rear disc brakes instead, and those parts are listed separately. Check your rear brakes before ordering.
Yes, after replacing tie rods, struts, control arms or rear arms. Front toe is set at the tie rods, front camber can be changed with an offset strut bolt kit, and rear toe and camber have adjuster kits and adjustable arms.
Numbered diagrams to print or save for the shop. The numbers match the numbered parts on the interactive diagram.