Front End Steering Rebuild Kits
Package kits bundle the wearing front end parts in one order.
2010 Dodge Challenger Suspension Diagram
This interactive diagram shows the front suspension, steering and rear suspension of the 2010 Dodge Challenger. Hover over or tap any part to see what it does, the signs that it is worn, and the replacement parts we carry that fit your car, down to the side and position.
2010 Dodge Challenger RWD Suspension Diagram (Full Car)
2010 Dodge Challenger RWD Front Suspension and Steering Diagram
2010 Dodge Challenger RWD Rear Suspension Diagram
We carry parts for it Not stocked yet Hover or tap any part.
The 2008 to 2010 Challenger shares its front and rear suspension parts with the 2006 to 2010 Charger and the 2005 to 2010 Chrysler 300 on a shorter wheelbase. The front is a short and long arm design with a coilover strut on each side. A forged upper arm sits around the strut, and two separate lower arms hold the bottom of the knuckle: a straight lateral arm that carries the strut, and a tension strut that runs forward to a large bushing on the front cradle. The front hubs slide onto spindles on the knuckles. A hydraulic steering rack sits ahead of the axle, and the sway bar runs behind the cradle with links down to the struts. The rear has five links per side on a subframe: a wide spring link with the coil, a toe link behind it, a lower forward arm and two upper arms, with a separate shock and halfshafts from the differential. The drawing shows the car with base brakes.
We carry replacement parts for 44 of the 52 components on this diagram, 217 parts in all. See every part for the 2010 Dodge Challenger.
Packages and kits
Strut and Shock Sets
Front struts and rear shocks for the whole car in one order.
Front and Rear Sway Bar Kits
Front and rear sway bars sold as a set.
Complete Suspension Bushing Kits
One kit with the suspension bushings for the whole car.
Lowering Spring Sets
Front and rear lowering springs sold as a set.
Front Suspension
1 Front Strut (Coilover Shock) (driver and passenger side)
The front shock is a coilover strut. Its forked bottom bolts to the middle of the lower lateral arm, its body passes up through the upper control arm, and its top bolts under the shock tower. It also carries the sway bar link on a tab.
Signs of wear: Bouncing after bumps, nose dive under braking, fluid on the body, or a knock from the top of the strut.
Tip: Struts are sold bare or as a complete assembly with the spring and mount fitted. The complete assembly needs no spring compressor.
See all Front Shock Absorber parts for the 2010 Dodge Challenger
2 Front Coil Spring (driver and passenger side)
The front coil spring sits on a seat high on the strut body, above the upper control arm, and pushes up against the strut mount.
Signs of wear: A front corner sitting lower than the other, a broken coil end, or a clunk when turning at a stop.
Tip: Replace springs in pairs. Lowering spring sets for these cars come as front and rear pairs.
We don't carry a front coil spring for the 2010 Dodge Challenger yet. Ask us about this part and we will try to source it.
3 Front Coil Spring Seat (driver and passenger side)
Rubber seats sit under and over the front coil, on the strut body and under the strut mount, so the spring does not rattle against metal.
Signs of wear: Squeaks or creaks over bumps from the front, or a spring that has worn a groove into its seat.
Tip: Fit new seats whenever the strut or spring is apart.
See all Front Coil Spring Isolator Pads parts for the 2010 Dodge Challenger
4 Front Strut Mount (driver and passenger side)
The strut mount is the rubber block at the top of the strut. Three studs bolt it under the shock tower.
Signs of wear: A clunk from the top of the strut over bumps, or a knock when the front unloads.
Tip: The mount is often replaced with the strut, since the strut has to come out either way.
See all Front Strut Mount parts for the 2010 Dodge Challenger
5 Front Strut Bellows and Bump Stop (driver and passenger side)
A rubber bellows covers the strut rod to keep grit off its seal, and the bump stop inside it cushions the strut at full compression. The coil hides it in the assembled view.
Signs of wear: A torn boot, a scored strut rod, or a hard bang over big bumps.
Tip: Fit a new boot and bump stop whenever the strut is replaced.
See all Front Shock Bellows Boot Kit parts for the 2010 Dodge Challenger
6 Front Upper Control Arm (driver and passenger side)
A forged A-shaped arm. Its two inner bushings bolt to the body beside the shock tower, the strut passes through the middle of the A, and its ball joint carries the top of the knuckle.
Signs of wear: Clunks over bumps, uneven tire wear, or play at the upper ball joint.
Tip: Rear wheel drive and all wheel drive cars use different upper arms. Adjustable arms are sold for camber and caster correction.
See all Front Control Arm parts for the 2010 Dodge Challenger
7 Front Upper Control Arm Bushing (driver and passenger side)
Each upper arm pivots on two rubber bushings, front and rear, on bolts that run front to back.
Signs of wear: A clunk when braking or turning, or rubber that is cracked or pushed out of the arm.
Tip: Upper arms are usually replaced as a unit with new bushings and ball joint fitted.
See all Front Control Arm Bushings parts for the 2010 Dodge Challenger
8 Front Lower Control Arm (Lateral Arm) (driver and passenger side)
A straight forged arm running from the cradle out to the bottom of the knuckle, behind the tension strut. It pivots on a bushing at the cradle, carries the strut on its middle bushing, and bolts to the ball joint stud at its outer end. All wheel drive cars use a one piece lower control arm and a front differential instead; parts marked AWD fit those cars.
Signs of wear: Clunks over bumps, a wandering feel, or cracked bushings in either eye.
Tip: On rear wheel drive cars the ball joint is a separate part pressed into the knuckle.
See all Front Control Arm parts for the 2010 Dodge Challenger
9 Front Lower Control Arm Bushing (driver and passenger side)
The lateral arm has two rubber bushings: one at the cradle and one in the middle, which the strut fork bolts through.
Signs of wear: A clunk over bumps or when braking, or a strut that rocks on the arm.
Tip: Bushings for all wheel drive arms are a different part from the rear wheel drive arm.
See all Front Control Arm Bushings parts for the 2010 Dodge Challenger
10 Front Lower Ball Joint (driver and passenger side)
The lower ball joint is pressed into the bottom of the knuckle. Its stud points down through the end of the lateral arm, held by a nut. Some replacement joints are offset to adjust camber.
Signs of wear: Clunks over bumps, a loose front end, or play when the wheel is rocked top to bottom.
Tip: The joint is pressed out of the knuckle and a new one pressed in. It fits rear wheel drive cars.
See all Front Lower Ball Joint parts for the 2010 Dodge Challenger
11 Front Tension Strut (Lower Forward Arm) (driver and passenger side)
A long forged rod with a ball stud at the knuckle and a large rubber bushing at the front of the cradle. It holds the bottom of the wheel from moving back and forth under braking.
Signs of wear: A clunk or shimmy when braking, steering that pulls under braking, or a torn front bushing.
Tip: Left and right are different parts. The arm comes with its ball joint and bushing fitted.
See all Front Control Arm parts for the 2010 Dodge Challenger
12 Front Tension Strut Bushing (driver and passenger side)
The large rubber bushing at the front end of the tension strut, mounted upright in the front of the cradle.
Signs of wear: A clunk when braking or pulling away, or a bushing that is split or leaking.
Tip: Offset polyurethane bushings are sold to add caster.
See all Radius Arm Bushings parts for the 2010 Dodge Challenger
13 Front Lower Arm Cam Bolt (driver and passenger side)
A cam bolt with eccentric washers replaces the bolt through the lateral arm inner bushing, so camber and caster can be set at alignment.
Signs of wear: Tire wear on the inner or outer edge that a normal alignment cannot correct.
Tip: An alignment is needed after fitting it.
See all Front End Alignment Kit parts for the 2010 Dodge Challenger
14 Front Steering Knuckle (driver and passenger side)
A tall knuckle that reaches up inside the wheel to the upper ball joint. It carries the hub and caliper, takes the lower ball joint and the tension strut at the bottom, and has the steering arm at the front.
Signs of wear: Knuckles rarely wear out. A bent knuckle shows as a pull that an alignment will not fix.
Tip: Not usually replaced unless damaged.
We don't carry a front steering knuckle for the 2010 Dodge Challenger yet. Ask us about this part and we will try to source it.
15 Front Sway Bar
The front sway bar runs across behind the cradle. Two bushings hold it to brackets on the cradle, and its ends come forward to links up to the struts.
Signs of wear: More body roll than normal in corners. The bar itself rarely fails.
Tip: Thicker aftermarket bars are sold to reduce body roll.
16 Front Sway Bar Bushing
Two rubber bushings clamp the bar to brackets on the cradle, under heat guard covers.
Signs of wear: A clunk or squeak over bumps and when turning.
Tip: Bushings are sized to the bar, so check the bar diameter before ordering.
See all Front Sway Bar Bushings parts for the 2010 Dodge Challenger
17 Front Sway Bar Link (driver and passenger side)
A link with a ball stud at each end, from the end of the bar up to a tab on the strut body.
Signs of wear: A knock or rattle from the front over small bumps.
Tip: Rear wheel drive cars use left and right links; all wheel drive cars use a different link.
See all Front Sway Bar Endlinks parts for the 2010 Dodge Challenger
Steering
18 Steering Rack and Boots
The hydraulic rack and pinion steering gear bolts to the cradle ahead of the front axle, with the pinion and valve on the driver side. Rubber boots seal each end over the inner tie rods.
Signs of wear: A torn boot, power steering fluid on the rack or lines, a clunk felt in the steering wheel, or play in the steering.
Tip: A torn boot can be replaced on its own when the inner tie rod comes off.
We don't carry a steering rack and boots for the 2010 Dodge Challenger yet. Ask us about this part and we will try to source it.
19 Inner Tie Rod End (driver and passenger side)
The inner tie rod screws into the end of the rack inside the boot, and the outer end threads onto it.
Signs of wear: A clunk when turning or steering that feels loose on center.
Tip: An alignment is needed after replacing tie rods. Rear wheel drive and all wheel drive cars use different inner tie rods, and the 2011 and later cars a different one again.
See all Front Inner Tie Rod End parts for the 2010 Dodge Challenger
20 Outer Tie Rod End (driver and passenger side)
The outer tie rod end threads onto the inner rod and its stud goes up through the steering arm at the front of the knuckle.
Signs of wear: Steering wander, uneven tire wear, or play felt when the wheel is shaken side to side.
Tip: Rear wheel drive cars use one outer end for both sides; all wheel drive cars use left and right ends.
See all Front Outer Tie Rod End parts for the 2010 Dodge Challenger
50 Steering Shaft Coupler
A rubber flex disc in the steering shaft above the rack pinion. It is listed without a drawing.
Signs of wear: A clunk or play felt in the steering wheel.
Tip: Check the listing against your car before ordering.
We don't carry a steering shaft coupler for the 2010 Dodge Challenger yet. Ask us about this part and we will try to source it.
51 Steering Rack Mount Bushing
Rubber bushings in the rack mounting ears where the rack bolts to the front cradle.
Signs of wear: A clunk or a delay in the steering when turning the wheel quickly.
Tip: Replace them as a set. Polyurethane bushings firm up the steering feel.
See all Steering Rack Bushings parts for the 2010 Dodge Challenger
Driveline
45 Rear Halfshaft (CV Axle) (driver and passenger side)
A halfshaft from the differential out to each rear hub, with a CV joint and boot at each end.
Signs of wear: A clicking when turning, a torn boot, or grease thrown around the wheel.
Tip: Check the axle size listed on the part before ordering.
We don't carry a rear halfshaft (cv axle) for the 2010 Dodge Challenger yet. Ask us about this part and we will try to source it.
46 Rear Differential Bushing
The differential hangs from the subframe on a front pinion mount and two rear mounts, each with a rubber bushing.
Signs of wear: A clunk when shifting into gear or wheel hop under hard acceleration.
Tip: Polyurethane sets replace all three mounts.
See all Rear Differential Bushings parts for the 2010 Dodge Challenger
48 Front CV Axle (AWD) (driver and passenger side) Not on every vehicle
All wheel drive cars have a front differential and a CV axle to each front hub. This diagram shows the rear wheel drive front, so the front axles are listed without a drawing.
Not on every vehicle: Fitted to all wheel drive cars only.
Signs of wear: A clicking when turning or a torn boot.
Tip: Fits all wheel drive cars only.
We don't carry a front cv axle (awd) for the 2010 Dodge Challenger yet. Ask us about this part and we will try to source it.
52 Driveshaft Coupler (Flex Disc)
A rubber flex disc bolted between the driveshaft and the pinion flange at the front of the rear differential. A second one joins the driveshaft to the transmission.
Signs of wear: A clunk when shifting into gear, a vibration at speed, or cracks in the rubber between the bolts.
Tip: Look at both couplers when one is cracked. The bolts are usually replaced with the disc.
See all Driveshaft Coupler parts for the 2010 Dodge Challenger
Rear Suspension
29 Rear Knuckle (driver and passenger side)
The rear knuckle carries the hub and caliper. All five rear links bolt to it: two upper arms at the top, the spring link and toe link behind, and the lower forward arm ahead.
Signs of wear: Knuckles rarely wear out.
Tip: Not usually replaced unless damaged.
We don't carry a rear knuckle for the 2010 Dodge Challenger yet. Ask us about this part and we will try to source it.
30 Rear Lower Control Arm (Spring Link) (driver and passenger side)
The wide stamped arm under the rear coil spring. Its inner end pivots on the subframe and its outer end bolts to the knuckle. The shock and the sway bar link also bolt to it.
Signs of wear: A clunk from the rear over bumps, or a corner sitting low.
Tip: The spring must be held or compressed before this arm is unbolted.
See all Rear Control Arm parts for the 2010 Dodge Challenger
31 Rear Lower Control Arm Bushing (driver and passenger side)
Bushings in each end of the spring link.
Signs of wear: A clunk or shift from the rear when accelerating or braking.
Tip: Polyurethane bushings are sold for the inner position.
See all Rear Control Arm Bushings parts for the 2010 Dodge Challenger
32 Rear Coil Spring (driver and passenger side)
The rear coil sits in the pocket of the spring link and pushes up into the body, separate from the shock.
Signs of wear: A rear corner sitting low or a broken coil end.
Tip: Replace springs in pairs.
We don't carry a rear coil spring for the 2010 Dodge Challenger yet. Ask us about this part and we will try to source it.
33 Rear Toe Link (Lower Rearward Arm) (driver and passenger side)
A bent link behind the spring link, from the subframe to the rear of the knuckle. It sets the rear toe.
Signs of wear: Rear tire wear on the inner edge, or a rear end that steers itself over bumps.
Tip: An alignment is needed after replacing it.
See all Rear Control Arm parts for the 2010 Dodge Challenger
34 Rear Toe Link Bushing (driver and passenger side)
Bushings in each end of the toe link.
Signs of wear: A vague or darting rear end.
Tip: Sold as an inner and outer set.
See all Rear Control Arm Bushings parts for the 2010 Dodge Challenger
35 Rear Lower Forward Arm (driver and passenger side)
A straight arm from the front of the knuckle forward and inboard to the subframe. It holds the wheel against braking and acceleration.
Signs of wear: A clunk from the rear when pulling away or braking.
Tip: Touring suspension cars use a different arm.
See all Rear Control Arm parts for the 2010 Dodge Challenger
36 Rear Lower Forward Arm Bushing (driver and passenger side)
Bushings in the front and rear ends of the lower forward arm.
Signs of wear: Wheel hop or a clunk under hard acceleration.
Tip: Front and rear positions are different bushings.
See all Trailing Arm Bushings parts for the 2010 Dodge Challenger
37 Rear Upper Forward Arm (driver and passenger side)
An arched forged arm from the top of the knuckle forward to the subframe.
Signs of wear: A clunk from the rear over bumps.
Tip: One part fits both sides.
See all Rear Control Arm parts for the 2010 Dodge Challenger
38 Rear Upper Rearward Arm (Camber Arm) (driver and passenger side)
An arched arm from the top of the knuckle back and inboard to the subframe. It sets the rear camber.
Signs of wear: Rear tire wear on the inner edge.
Tip: Left and right are different parts, and all wheel drive cars may use an aluminum arm.
See all Rear Control Arm parts for the 2010 Dodge Challenger
39 Rear Upper Arm and Camber Bushing (driver and passenger side)
Bushings in the ends of both rear upper arms. Offset camber bushings replace them to adjust rear camber.
Signs of wear: Rear tire wear on the inner edge or a clunk over bumps.
Tip: An alignment is needed after fitting camber bushings.
See all Rear Control Arm Bushings parts for the 2010 Dodge Challenger
40 Rear Shock Absorber (driver and passenger side)
A separate shock beside the coil, from the outer part of the spring link up to a mount in the body above the wheel well.
Signs of wear: Bouncing after bumps, a floaty rear, or fluid on the body.
Tip: Self leveling cars use a different shock; conversion kits are sold.
See all Rear Shock Absorber parts for the 2010 Dodge Challenger
41 Rear Shock Mount (driver and passenger side)
The upper mount and plate that bolt the top of the rear shock to the body.
Signs of wear: A knock from the rear over bumps.
Tip: Fit a new mount when replacing the shock.
See all Rear Strut Mount parts for the 2010 Dodge Challenger
42 Rear Sway Bar
The rear bar runs across the top of the subframe behind the axle. Its ends drop to links on the spring links.
Signs of wear: More body roll than normal in corners.
Tip: The subframe has to be lowered to take the bar out.
43 Rear Sway Bar Bushing
Two bushings clamp the rear bar to the subframe.
Signs of wear: A clunk from the rear over bumps.
Tip: The bushing size depends on the suspension package.
See all Rear Sway Bar Bushings parts for the 2010 Dodge Challenger
44 Rear Sway Bar Link (driver and passenger side)
A short link with a bushing at each end, from the bar end down to the spring link.
Signs of wear: A rattle from the rear over small bumps.
Tip: One part fits both sides.
See all Rear Sway Bar Endlinks parts for the 2010 Dodge Challenger
47 Rear Subframe Bushing
The rear subframe is bolted to the body at four mounts, each with an upper and lower rubber bushing.
Signs of wear: A clunk or shift from the rear when accelerating, braking or turning.
Tip: The subframe has to be lowered to replace them.
See all Rear Subframe Bushings parts for the 2010 Dodge Challenger
Brakes and Hubs
21 Front Wheel Bearing and Hub (driver and passenger side)
A sealed bearing and hub that slides onto the spindle of the knuckle and is held by a large hub nut under a cap. The wheel and rotor mount on its five studs.
Signs of wear: A growl or hum that changes with speed or when turning, or play in the wheel.
Tip: Rear wheel drive and all wheel drive cars use different front hubs. A new hub nut is used each time the hub comes off.
See all Front Wheel Bearing and Hub Assembly parts for the 2010 Dodge Challenger
22 Front Brake Rotor (driver and passenger side)
A vented disc on the hub, gripped by the caliper behind the axle.
Signs of wear: A pulsing brake pedal, a grinding noise, or deep grooves in the disc.
Tip: Base cars have a 320 mm front rotor; performance brake cars a 345 mm rotor, and SRT8 cars a 360 mm rotor.
See all Front Brake Rotor parts for the 2010 Dodge Challenger
23 Front Brake Caliper (driver and passenger side)
A floating caliper on an adapter bracket bolted to the rear of the knuckle. Base cars have a single piston caliper; performance brake cars have a twin piston caliper and a larger rotor, and SRT8 cars a four piston caliper.
Signs of wear: Uneven pad wear, a pull under braking, or brake fluid on the wheel.
Tip: Calipers are sided and usually come with the bracket. Match the piston count to your car before ordering.
See all Front Brake Caliper parts for the 2010 Dodge Challenger
24 Front Brake Pads (driver and passenger side)
Two pads in the caliper, one each side of the disc.
Signs of wear: Squealing, a grinding noise, or a longer stop.
Tip: Replace pads on both sides together.
See all Front Brake Pads parts for the 2010 Dodge Challenger
25 Rear Wheel Bearing and Hub (driver and passenger side)
A sealed bearing and hub bolted to the rear knuckle. The halfshaft splines through it.
Signs of wear: A growl from the rear that changes with speed.
Tip: Two rear hubs are listed for these years; check the part against your car before ordering.
See all Rear Wheel Bearing and Hub Assembly parts for the 2010 Dodge Challenger
26 Rear Brake Rotor (driver and passenger side)
A disc on the rear hub. Its deep hat holds the small parking brake drum inside.
Signs of wear: A pulsing pedal, a grinding noise, or a parking brake that will not hold.
Tip: Solid and vented rear rotors are fitted depending on the brake package.
See all Rear Brake Rotor parts for the 2010 Dodge Challenger
27 Rear Brake Caliper (driver and passenger side)
A floating caliper on a bracket at the front of the rear knuckle.
Signs of wear: Uneven rear pad wear or brake fluid on the wheel.
Tip: Calipers are sided.
See all Rear Brake Caliper parts for the 2010 Dodge Challenger
28 Rear Brake Pads (driver and passenger side)
Two pads in the rear caliper, one each side of the disc.
Signs of wear: Squealing or grinding from the rear.
Tip: Replace pads on both sides together.
49 Parking Brake Shoes (driver and passenger side)
Small shoes inside the hat of each rear rotor work the parking brake. They are hidden inside the rotor, so they are listed without a drawing.
Signs of wear: A parking brake that will not hold.
Tip: Replace both sides together.
See all Parking Brake Shoes parts for the 2010 Dodge Challenger
Questions about the 2010 Dodge Challenger suspension
What are the most common suspension wear items on a 2010 Dodge Challenger?
The front tension struts and their large front bushings, the lower ball joints, the upper control arms and the front sway bar links are the parts most often replaced, followed by tie rod ends and front hubs. A clunk or shimmy when braking often points to a worn tension strut bushing.
Does the Challenger use the same suspension parts as the Charger?
Yes for the arms, struts, tie rods, hubs and rear links of the 2006 to 2010 rear wheel drive Charger and 300. The Challenger has a shorter wheelbase and its own wheels and tires, and its brakes depend on the engine, so check those by trim.
Why are there two front lower control arms?
The bottom of the knuckle is held by two separate arms. The lateral arm runs straight in to the cradle and carries the strut, and the tension strut runs forward to a bushing at the front of the cradle. The lateral arm bolts to a ball joint pressed into the knuckle, and the tension strut has its own ball joint.
Which brakes does my Challenger have?
The SE has a single piston front caliper on a 320 mm rotor and solid rear rotors. The R/T has a twin piston front caliper on a 345 mm rotor, and the SRT8 has four piston Brembo calipers on 360 mm front and 350 mm rear rotors. Check the rotor size or the brake listing for your car before ordering.
Which years share this suspension?
The 2008 to 2010 Challenger shares these parts with the 2006 to 2010 Charger and the 2005 to 2010 Chrysler 300. The 2011 and later Challenger uses a different front lateral arm, strut, tie rods and hubs.
Printable 2010 Dodge Challenger suspension diagrams
Numbered diagrams to print or save for the shop. The numbers match the numbered parts on the interactive diagram.
